Zanzibar Island
Our final stop on the cruise was the island of Zanzibar. I had previously visited Zanzibar back in 1998. It's an amazing exotic island with a rich history.
Sunday, December 9, 2007
With this trip to Africa, I've now visited over 100 countries around the world. Nice accomplishment to achieve the century mark!
Saturday, December 8, 2007
Comoros Islands
Mayotte
Our next stop was Mayotte, a territoire autre-mer of France. Mayotte is part of the Comoros Islands - a small cluster of islands between Madagascar and the African continent. We arranged for a van and set off to explore the island. Our first stop was the Guerlain Ylang Ylang plantation, where the essential oils of that fragrant plant are distilled to serve as one of the base elements of many famous perfumes. We were surprised at how small the factory was, and how simple the distillation process is. We then drove down along the western coastline to a small bay where sea turles gather. I brought my snorkel gear, but found the waters to be too turbulent with sediment to see any of the turtles. Bummer! A few of our fellow cruise passengers had better luck. That was followed by a very tasty seaside luncheon with a tropical theme, topped off by a dessert of creme brulee a l'essence d'ylang ylang. Yum! We headed back to the ship and set sail for Zanzibar.
(l-r): Guerlain Ylang Ylang plantation; The distillery; Baobab tree
At Sea
A couple hours after we left Mayotte, one of the two main engines shut down, and we proceeded slowly at half-speed on the remaining engine. Within a couple of hours, the problem was fixed, but unfortunately a similar problem developed with the other engine halfway through the night, further delaying our progress.
Madagascar
Nosy Be
We dropped anchor in Nosy Be harbor on our eighth evening at sea. Madagascar was the island I had most anticipated on the itinerary, and it was exciting to finally arrive. The next morning we set out on our prearranged tour. Our guide met us at the dock and we were on our way. The first stop was the bustling central market in Hellville (not named for its semblance to eternal damnation, but rather in honor of the former French Governor, Admiral de Hell). The market quickly proved to be a sensory overload, as the sights, sounds and scents were somewhat overwhelming. The most impressive items were the vast array of fresh fruit, and we were fortunate that mangoes had just come into season. Equally interesting were the various spices and essential oils native to the island. Scents of ylang ylang, vanilla and nutmeg wafted through the air.
(l-r): locals selling fresh fruit by the ship; Hellville market
Our guide picked out some freshly picked lychees as snacks for the road. Next up was a visit to a holy tree where the local animists believed the spirits of their ancestors dwelled. The expansive mangling of trunks, shoots and leaves was actually the symbiotic fusion of a ficus and banyan tree. Then we came across a beautiful chameleon clinging to a low-hanging tree branch. We stopped along the roadside to sample some fresh jackfruit, which tasted like an interesting combination of banana and pineapple (think stringy banana!) We next stopped by a typical Malagasy village (a collection of thatched-roof huts) and handed out some pens to the wide-eyed children who were present. We continued to the northwestern tip of Nosy Be to the beautiful beach village of Andilana for a delicious grilled seafood lunch. On the way back to port, we stopped at Mt. Passat, the highest point on the island (329m) for a bird's eye 360* view of Nosy Be.
(l-r): The sacred tree, cashew nuts, chameleon
(l-r): Eating a mango; our guide holding ylang ylang flowers; local children
I was somewhat taken aback by the abject poverty in Madagascar. In all my travels, this is one of, if not the poorest country I've ever visited. The humble conditions in which the locals live is amazing, but they lack the economic stimulus to better their lives. Truly sad. This is also the first trip which clearly demonstrated to me how the economic prowess of the United States has faltered overseas. While the locals would accept dollars, euros or the local currency, their clear preference was for euros, as they lamented, en francais, how much the value of the U.S. dollar has fallen. Thanks a lot, Mr. Bush!
Nosy Komba
On day 2 in Madagascar, we went on an excursion to nearby Nosy Komba island to view a colony of resident black lemurs. The 10-minute speedboat ride (sans transfer via Hell-ville) was great. Upon arrival, we passed through a typical Malagasy island village and climbed up the path in search of lemurs. The gang of black lemurs - a couple of adult males and females - was a welcome sight. Their inquisitive nature, coupled with their intense orange eyes and their hunger for bananas as lure, proved to be a crowd pleaser for our tour group of ten. A couple of us were asked if we wanted the lemurs to sit on our shoulder, and Erik, Garry and I were only to happy to volunteer. Cute fuzzy creatures with amazing long tails. Prior to the shore excursion, we had been told specifically not to feed the "semi-tame" lemurs, so my expectations for any contact were quite low. However, the lemur interaction proved to be one my fondest and most memorable events of the cruise. We saw some additional animals near the lemur colony - tortoises, snakes, chameleons and geckos. Then we meandered back through the village, stopping at a few shops selling Malagasy handicrafts. I picked up a beautiful hand-carved wooden mask with a lemur and chameleon etched into the surface. Then it was back to the ship for some lunch and a relaxing afternoon of sunbathing.
(l-r): School children in Nosy Komba; Erik eyes a lemur; Mark makes friends
(l-r): Female black lemur; playing with Erik's glasses; Male black lemur strikes a pose
(l-r): Female lemur with baby clinging to chest; Garry makes a friend; Crouching lemur, Hidden monkey
(l-r): Traveler's palm; Banana tree; Black parrot on Nosy Komba
(l-r): Chameleon; "Scratch my neck, please!"; The face of ET?
Sunset in Nosy Be, Madagascar
We dropped anchor in Nosy Be harbor on our eighth evening at sea. Madagascar was the island I had most anticipated on the itinerary, and it was exciting to finally arrive. The next morning we set out on our prearranged tour. Our guide met us at the dock and we were on our way. The first stop was the bustling central market in Hellville (not named for its semblance to eternal damnation, but rather in honor of the former French Governor, Admiral de Hell). The market quickly proved to be a sensory overload, as the sights, sounds and scents were somewhat overwhelming. The most impressive items were the vast array of fresh fruit, and we were fortunate that mangoes had just come into season. Equally interesting were the various spices and essential oils native to the island. Scents of ylang ylang, vanilla and nutmeg wafted through the air.
(l-r): locals selling fresh fruit by the ship; Hellville market
Our guide picked out some freshly picked lychees as snacks for the road. Next up was a visit to a holy tree where the local animists believed the spirits of their ancestors dwelled. The expansive mangling of trunks, shoots and leaves was actually the symbiotic fusion of a ficus and banyan tree. Then we came across a beautiful chameleon clinging to a low-hanging tree branch. We stopped along the roadside to sample some fresh jackfruit, which tasted like an interesting combination of banana and pineapple (think stringy banana!) We next stopped by a typical Malagasy village (a collection of thatched-roof huts) and handed out some pens to the wide-eyed children who were present. We continued to the northwestern tip of Nosy Be to the beautiful beach village of Andilana for a delicious grilled seafood lunch. On the way back to port, we stopped at Mt. Passat, the highest point on the island (329m) for a bird's eye 360* view of Nosy Be.
(l-r): The sacred tree, cashew nuts, chameleon
(l-r): Eating a mango; our guide holding ylang ylang flowers; local children
I was somewhat taken aback by the abject poverty in Madagascar. In all my travels, this is one of, if not the poorest country I've ever visited. The humble conditions in which the locals live is amazing, but they lack the economic stimulus to better their lives. Truly sad. This is also the first trip which clearly demonstrated to me how the economic prowess of the United States has faltered overseas. While the locals would accept dollars, euros or the local currency, their clear preference was for euros, as they lamented, en francais, how much the value of the U.S. dollar has fallen. Thanks a lot, Mr. Bush!
Nosy Komba
On day 2 in Madagascar, we went on an excursion to nearby Nosy Komba island to view a colony of resident black lemurs. The 10-minute speedboat ride (sans transfer via Hell-ville) was great. Upon arrival, we passed through a typical Malagasy island village and climbed up the path in search of lemurs. The gang of black lemurs - a couple of adult males and females - was a welcome sight. Their inquisitive nature, coupled with their intense orange eyes and their hunger for bananas as lure, proved to be a crowd pleaser for our tour group of ten. A couple of us were asked if we wanted the lemurs to sit on our shoulder, and Erik, Garry and I were only to happy to volunteer. Cute fuzzy creatures with amazing long tails. Prior to the shore excursion, we had been told specifically not to feed the "semi-tame" lemurs, so my expectations for any contact were quite low. However, the lemur interaction proved to be one my fondest and most memorable events of the cruise. We saw some additional animals near the lemur colony - tortoises, snakes, chameleons and geckos. Then we meandered back through the village, stopping at a few shops selling Malagasy handicrafts. I picked up a beautiful hand-carved wooden mask with a lemur and chameleon etched into the surface. Then it was back to the ship for some lunch and a relaxing afternoon of sunbathing.
(l-r): School children in Nosy Komba; Erik eyes a lemur; Mark makes friends
(l-r): Female black lemur; playing with Erik's glasses; Male black lemur strikes a pose
(l-r): Female lemur with baby clinging to chest; Garry makes a friend; Crouching lemur, Hidden monkey
(l-r): Traveler's palm; Banana tree; Black parrot on Nosy Komba
(l-r): Chameleon; "Scratch my neck, please!"; The face of ET?
Sunset in Nosy Be, Madagascar
Friday, December 7, 2007
The Seychelles
Mahe
At noon on the third day, we arrived at the port of Victoria on Mahe island. Our visit to Mahe was cut short by the 1.5 days due to the ship's mechanical delay. However, we made the best of the situation with a visit to the botanical gardens, followed by a stroll through central Victoria (which consisted of all of a half-dozen or so streets - very small town). All the shops were closed due to our Sunday pm arrival. Took a taxi to the western side of the island and enjoyed the beach for a couple of hours and headed back to Victoria for dinner at the Pirate's Arms restaurant. The highlight of the meal was a frosty, refreshing pistachio milkshake, which proved to be the perfect antidote to the hot, humid Seychellois summer weather.
Praslin and La Digue
The next morning, we set sail at sunrise for nearby Praslin island. Praslin's claim to fame is its Vallee de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage protected preserve which serves as home to thousands of the very unique Coco de Mer palm tree. The fruit, or coconuts, that the tree bears resemble the derrier of a voluptuous woman, and the male variety of the tree produces a rather phallic-shaped fruit. Needless to say, plenty of rumors, myths and innuendos about this unique "freak" of nature and its purported aphrodisiac qualities abound. A nice benefit of the nature walk through the park was the large and broad fronds of the Coco de Mer palm, which provided a natural canopy to shelter from the hot tropical sun.
Mark getting cheeky with a Coco de Mer
Praslin harbor (right)
At noon on the third day, we arrived at the port of Victoria on Mahe island. Our visit to Mahe was cut short by the 1.5 days due to the ship's mechanical delay. However, we made the best of the situation with a visit to the botanical gardens, followed by a stroll through central Victoria (which consisted of all of a half-dozen or so streets - very small town). All the shops were closed due to our Sunday pm arrival. Took a taxi to the western side of the island and enjoyed the beach for a couple of hours and headed back to Victoria for dinner at the Pirate's Arms restaurant. The highlight of the meal was a frosty, refreshing pistachio milkshake, which proved to be the perfect antidote to the hot, humid Seychellois summer weather.
Praslin and La Digue
The next morning, we set sail at sunrise for nearby Praslin island. Praslin's claim to fame is its Vallee de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage protected preserve which serves as home to thousands of the very unique Coco de Mer palm tree. The fruit, or coconuts, that the tree bears resemble the derrier of a voluptuous woman, and the male variety of the tree produces a rather phallic-shaped fruit. Needless to say, plenty of rumors, myths and innuendos about this unique "freak" of nature and its purported aphrodisiac qualities abound. A nice benefit of the nature walk through the park was the large and broad fronds of the Coco de Mer palm, which provided a natural canopy to shelter from the hot tropical sun.
The Coco de Mer
Female plant (center)
Male plant (right)
Mark getting cheeky with a Coco de Mer
Praslin harbor (right)
Next, we headed back to the jetty to catch a 20-minute catamaran ferry ride over to neighboring La Digue island. La Digue is famous for its idyllic powder sand beaches accented by beautiful palm trees and huge granite boulder outcroppings. After enjoying a wonderful chicken curry lunch, we rented some bikes and headed for the beach, a 15-minute ride south. For the next two hours, we basked in the warm tropical sun amid the sandy-bottomed lagoon, fringed by the protective reef. Absolutely perfect! Totally unique. The most idyllic beach scene I've ever experienced, bar none.
Local taxi on La Digue
Idyllic beach at Anse Source d'Argent on La Digue island
After a quick cat ferry ride back to Praslin, and transfer to a tender, we were back aboard the Royal Star to embark on the next leg of our journey - a voyage southward to Madagascar. It would take two more days at sea to cover the 750-mile journey to the Land of the Lemurs...
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Travelogue: Out of Africa - An Indian Ocean Cruise Odyssey
Africa, the Dark Continent, has increasingly held an allure for me. I've had the good fortune to visit Africa several times - mostly South Africa, but also Egypt, Morocco and a few other sub-Saharan countries. However, the interesting and exotic islands of the Indian Ocean - off Africa's eastern coastline - continue to intrigue me. About a year ago, I found a cruise which offered an amazing itinerary, starting in Mombasa, Kenya, and calling on ports in the Seychelles, Madagascar, the Comoros Islands and Zanzibar, Tanzania. I convinced a couple of friends, Erik and Garry, to join me on the adventure.
Frangipani (Plumeria) flowers
The package included a charter flight from London/Gatwick to Mombasa on Monarch Airlines. Upon arrival in Kenya, we were advised that the ship had a mechanical problem, and were accommodated for one night at a seaside resort (owned by the cruise company). Warm tropical sun, a fresh breeze off the ocean and the familiar beautiful scent of Frangipani (Plumeria) greeted us.
Frangipani (Plumeria) flowers
The second day, we transferred to the ship to commence our ocean voyage. The MS Royal Star is a 50-year old vessel which exudes a certain nostalgic charm. The 200-passenger ship, with its staff and crew of 100 provides a cozy and intimate setting for the cruising passenger. While the ship doesn't have all of the amenities of a modern, 3,000 passenger sailing "city", the Royal Star definitely provides a more personalized service.
M/S Royal Star
At Sea
We set out on a 950-mile journey eastward to the Seychelles Islands. Our heading was 90* due east and we chugged along at 15 knots/hour. The two full days at sea provided an opportunity to become better familiarized with the ship and onboard amenities. The daily ritual quickly became breakfast at 8am, suntanning and reading until noon, followed by lunch, a movie at 2pm, a nice nap, freshen-up for dinner, dinner and then some evening entertainment. The day was topped off by a stroll to the upper front deck and the quiet solitude of stargazing. We were blessed with beautifully bright, full-moon nights at the start of the cruise.
Indian Ocean sunset
