Saturday, July 13, 2013

Fernando de Noronha - Brazil's paradise island

In early July 2013, I took a trip to Fernando de Noronha, an idyllic tropical island an hour's flight off Brazil's northeastern coastline in the Atlantic Ocean. I was drawn to visiting this island because I had heard/read accolades of the island's pristine beaches, beautiful nature and lack of overdevelopment. There are no brand name hotels on the small island, only small family-owned pousadas, or Brazilian b&b's. The island lies just south of the equator, but I found the climate warm and comfortable, not hot and humid. Typical daily highs were 25*C/77*F, and there seemed to be a cool, comfortable breeze blowing at any given time, due to the close proximity of the surrounding ocean. All visitors are required to register upon arrival and pay a tourist tax based on the number of days staying on the island. My five day visit cost $110, a worthwhile contribution towards the preservation of this geographic gem. Typical local fare included fresh fish/seafood accompanied by rice and beans. Fresh fruit and vegetables were plentiful as well. Ground tapioca is used as a flour to make tasty sweet and savory pancake like treats (best with dulce de leche and coconut!) I took an island tour which consisted of a 10-hour visit to a half-dozen beaches around the island. Praia de Sancho (Sancho Beach) was one of the most beautiful beaches I've ever visited in my life. Many tropical birds, including frigates, boobies and tropic birds were observed at every turn. My fave were the tropic birds, with their beautiful flowing long white tails that float in rhythmic unison with its body in flight. Brazil is definitely a beach culture, and Brazilians are clearly most at home and content in the sun and sand. The positive vibe is infectious and visitors soon happily join in. Another day I took an island boat tour, including stops along the coastline following by dropping anchor in the bay at Praia de Sancho. Some wonderful snorkeling ensued. My favorite aspect of the trip occured when a small pod of six or so common dolphins came along to ride the waves at the bow (front) of the boat. One of the dolphins flipped over with its stomach facing upwards and playfully flapped its tail (flukes) against the water's surface, suggesting a light-hearted "look at me!" tone. After having lost my sister Julie to breast cancer in mid-April, and then work being so busy the past couple of months, I was ready for a nice, relaxing beach vacation; something simple and focused on nature. Fernando de Noronha provided the perfect getaway for me. I highly recommend it. My one regret is that I felt at a clear disadvantage for not being able to speak Portuguese. My English, French, German and Spanish didn't get me very far on Fernando. Much easier for visitors who can speak Portuguese. I could get by with a combination of English and Spanish, but I was at a clear disadvantage. Happy Travels! Mark

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