Travelogue: A Week in Provence

In late June 2009, I had the opportunity to spend a week in Provence, France with some friends. I had long pondered a return to this beautiful region of France, especially after celebrating my 40th birthday with friends in Tuscany, Italy in August 2007. I was particularly curious to compare/contrast these two similar, but unique regions.

After spending a week in Switzerland, catching up with friends and former colleagues, I boarded a TGV train in Geneva for the three hour journey south. The TGV stopped in Lyon and then continued south, hugging the Rhone river valley, wizzing past fields of lavender and sunflowers, stopping in Avignon and ending in Aix-en-Provence. My friend Jim and I picked up our rental car and headed 45-minutes northwest of Aix, into the heart of the Luberon valley. Meandered the narrow Provencal backroads until we came upon the charming villa Les Roullets, where we’d spend the next week along with other friends for a Week in Provence.

Les Roullets, in Oppede, rests on an outcropping with an amazing view westward. The rooms, newly refurbished, were impeccable and the grounds neatly manicured with a mix of olive and cypress trees, lavender and roses. A beautiful pool beckoned me for a daily refreshing afternoon swim in the hot (38*C/100*F) Provencal summer weather. Just a perfect, idyllic setting.

We soon settled into a daily routine which included a leisurely breakfast at 9am. Breakfast was served al fresco, always overlooking the pool. Fresh croissants, fruit, meats and cheese awaited us each morning. By 10am, we usually hit the road to venture out for the day’s adventures, trying to beat the hot afternoon temps. There were a number of nearby attractions to choose from as day trips. Some highlights included the magnificent lavender fields near Sault, nestled in the Vaucluse hills as well as the serene setting of l’Abbaye de Senanque, where I bought 1 kilo (!) of mile de lavande (lavender honey). Also impressive was the nearby town of Gordes, perched on a hilltop overlooking the Luberon valley. The Tuesday market there was particularly good. Sellers hocked a variety of local goods from their stands – from honey to soap to linens to fresh fruits and vegetables. The sights and smells were incredible!

Enjoyed a wonderful dinner at a restaurant called Veranda in the nearby village of Menerbes, where the British writer Peter Mayle wrote the globally popular book “A Year in Provence” a couple of decades ago. We also learned that Hollywood movie director Ridley Scott owns a villa on the property immediately adjacent to Les Roullets.

We stopped by two small wineries for some degustation (tasting). Domaine de Tara offered some tasty white wines, considered some of the best in the region. From there, we continued on to la Domaine de la Coquillade and their Aureto winery. Took a brief tour of their winery and sampled a couple of their whites, roses and reds, followed by a lovely lunch at their vineyard-side bistrot. Wonderful food and amazing views across the vineyard to the surrounding Luberon valley. Bought some sea salt that was harvested locally in the Camargue region of Provence.

On Thursday, Herve, my host brother during my 6-month sejour in Chambery, France, came down from Lyon to tour around with us for the day. From Avignon, we headed 30 minutes west to le Pont du Gard, a Roman aqueduct dating back centuries. I fondly remembered when I first visited the Pont du Gard during my sejour in Chambery, and eagerly anticipated a return visit. After that, we headed southeast, past Nimes, to Arles. Did a circle walk around les Arenes, an arena dating back to Roman times, and then found a nice restaurant for some Provencal fare. After lunch, we headed north and stopped at Les Baux. The beautiful hilltop village, clinging to the craggy bauxite rock, was beautiful in the afternoon sun. Got in a bit of shopping as well. I particularly liked the advertising for the liquor Absinthe, using the image of Vincent Van Gogh. After Les Baux, we headed back to Avignon to complete our circle trip, and stopped at le Pont d’Avignon and walked around the outside of le Palais des Papes. We dropped Herve back off at the Gare TGV and headed back to Les Roullets in Oppede. It was a long, fun-filled day.

On Friday, we set out for the Mediterranean coast. Arrived in Cassis 1h45 min later, just in time to catch the 12h15 sailing to visit the Calanques. The weather was gorgeous, so a 70-minute boatride along the Mediterranean coast was perfect, with the continuous cooling ocean breeze. Once back onshore, we enjoyed lunch at a harborside restaurant. It was a great way to wrap-up our week-long adventure in Provence.

The similarities between Provence and Tuscany are striking – the laid-back lifestyle, the abundance of the earth – with fresh fruits, vegetables, olives, wines, etc. But the areas are also unique in their own ways, and both deserve a visit. I don’t favor one over the other, but perhaps feel more comfortable in Provence, where I have a greater command of the local language.

Wrapped up the incredible week with a TGV train up to Paris, a quick overnight at an airport hotel near CDG and then a long flight back home across the Atlantic. Truly an amazing couple of weeks in Europe!

Websites that I found helpful in preparing for this trip include:

http://www.lesroullets.com/

http://www.pontdugard.fr

http://www.lesbauxdeprovence.com/

http://www.senanque.fr/

http://www.beyond.fr/sites/calanques.html

Bon Voyage!

Mark

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Travelogue - Treasures of Indochine (April 2000)

I just returned from a week's vacation in Southeast Asia. I went with a friend from work, Carlos, and we visited Vietnam, Bangkok and Cambodia. Below are some highlights of the trip:

Vietnam

We flew on Cathay Pacific Airways via Hong Kong to Hanoi, in northern Vietnam. We were met at the airport by a guide and driver. Given the logistics of what where we wanted to go, I felt it best to organize this in advance. In researching Vietnam, one place caught my attention in particular. Halong Bay is an area along the coast about 170 km east of Hanoi. It's an area where the Red River flows into the sea, connecting with the Gulf of Tonkin and the South China Sea. In this bay, there's a unique set of islands that are limestone in composition, and have been eroded over time in such a way as to produce some incredible islands, caves, and lagoons. Some 3000 small islands are scattered throughout the calm, placid bay. This area appealed to me because it reminded me very much of the magical, mystical limestone-carved landscape I had seen in Guilin, China during a riverboat ride along the Li River in southern China in November 1997. My interest peaked when I found that Diethelm Travel offered a 2-day sea canoe trip around the bay.

From the airport, we drove east to the port city of Haiphong, had lunch, and proceeded south to Halong City. En route we had two ferry crossings near the coastline. We arrived at the resort town of Halong City around 4pm and settled into our hotel after an exhausting 36 hours of journey time since leaving Dallas (via Toronto, Anchorage, Hong Kong and Hanoi!) Saturday afternoon and evening were free, so in our zombie states, we blew off dinner and slept till dawn.

Sunday morning, we awoke, had breakfast and proceeded to the port to board the boat for our 2-day adventure. It turned out that we had a privately chartered, 30-foot boat complete with captain and crew of 4, our tour guide and our sea canoe guide. We set out at 8am and cruised 1 1/2 hours to our first canoe launch site. It was a beautiful, sunny day with temperatures in the comfortable mid-70s. En route, we were fascinated by the beautiful limestone outcroppings on the little islands that dotted the bay. Even more impressive was the fact that few other boats were seen. You see, most tourists who visit Halong Bay take a short 4-5 hour boat ride out from Halong City. However, since we were doing a 2-day cruise (overnight on board), we were able to venture further out into the bay, and thus encountered sights that most tourists never see.

We anchored in a little inlet and boarded our 10-ft. long yellow, rubber canoe. Our canoe guide sat at the stern, with Carlos and I anternating between the front and middle positions. We proceeded to enter a limeston cave, hallowed out by the sea water over thousands of years. We shone our flashlights in the increasingly darkened cave to reveal a number of stalagtites and stalagmites. After manoevering around a couple of bends in the cave, we saw a light in the distance. We soon found that the cave opened up to a mountain-lined, enclosed, private lagoon. It was one of the most spectacular sights I've ever seen. I virtual paradise - and so completely serene and peaceful. Carlos was so impressed, he jumped overboard for a quick dip in the lagoon.

The next two days were spent doing morning and afternoon canoe launches that lasted 1 1/2 - 2 hours each. We anchored at a couple of different sites, and were impressed at variety of vegetation and sea life that we saw. The waters of the bay are rich in ocean life, and we dined on freshly caught fish, calamari and shrimp for lunch and dinner both days. Large, colorful jellyfish dotted the lagoons as well.

On Day 2, we docked back at Halong Bay around 12 noon and hit the road for our 3-hour drive back to Hanoi. We arrived early, so our guide showed us some sites in the city. It was a serious case of culture shock for me. Here I had just spent the past two days totally at peace and at one with nature, and then I was thrust back into the hustle and bustle of citylife. Just walking along the narrow streets of the market quarter of Hanoi was an exercise in self-preservation. There was a continuous stream of honking mopeds, motorcycles and bicycles, with an occasional taxi or car thrown in. At most intersections you literally had to step off the curb into this sea of two-wheel monsters and hope that you didn't get run over or run-into! Stop lights? Yield to pedestrians? You've got to be kidding! My culture shock and discomfort were quite visible on my face. Needless to say, I was happy when we were safely in our chauffered car heading back to the airport to catch our flight on to Bangkok.

We caught an evening Air France flight to Bangkok and stayed at an airport hotel. This is where Carlos and I parted ways. The next day I embarked on the "cultural" aspect of my trip in Cambodia while I left Carlos to play and have fun in Bangkok.

Cambodia

On Tuesday morning, I caught an 8am, one-hour flight aboard Bangkok Airways to Siem Reap, in northwestern Cambodia. Siem Reap is a small, provencial town that serves as a launching pad for tourists visiting the world-famous temples and ruins of Angkor Wat. The Angkor monuments comprise a vast area of 77 square miles, and were constructed 10th and 11th centuries. The architectural greatness of this complex is unrivaled, and in December 1992, Angkor was added to UNESCO's World Heritage List. This honor recognizes Angkor as one of mankind's most significant cultural heritage sites. The area is now protected, and carefully guarded for historical preservation.

Unfortunately, when someone mentions "Cambodia" in the West, the first
words that come to people's minds include "Khmer Rouge", "The Killing Fields", "Pol Pot", etc. While it's quite true that this country encountered an incredible amount of turmoil during the last quarter of the 20th century, great strides were made after a new government was established in the early 1990s to restore order to the country. As a result, a concentrated effort has been made to clear the country of landmines, improve the infrastructure, and boost tourism. In a lot of ways, the preservation and promotion of Angkor as a world-class tourist destination plays heavily in Cambodia's economic recovery.

I was amazed by the way that life seems to be running with some sense of normalcy in this country that was wartorn for so many years. The genocidal horrors and atrocities of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge ravaged the country of 3 million of its inhabitants. Still, these short years later, I got a sense that these people are optimistic about their future. Riding their mopeds, drinking Coke and listening to the latest American Top 40 tunes, the Cambodian people desire to be a part of the international community.

Upon arrival at the tiny Siem Reap airport, I handed over my paperwork, passport photo and $20, and was issued a visitor's visa on the spot. Quite efficient in terms of international immigration! Outside the terminal, one is accosted by a swarm of Cambodians, eager to drive you to your hotel. The guide books all listed $5 as the applicable fare to the town of Siem Reap, a short 7 km away. However, supply and demand dictated that I would only have to pay a paltry $2 for that ride. During the ride to the hotel, my driver offered his services for the day to take me around the Angkor complex. Further, he offered the tour guide services of a friend of his as well. Sensing that his car was clean, and he seemed legit and eager to please this foreigner, I accepted his $20 proposal. Thus, for $60 ($20 car/driver, $20 tour guide and $20 park entrance fee), I had my time at Angkor mapped out. This was nice, as it was one of the first times in my life where I paid less for something than the price advised in the tour books.

We entered the vast Angkor complex at 10am. Since I wanted to maximize my one-day park pass, I negotiated with my guide on the best sites to visit. We started in Angkor Thom with the magnificant Buddhist monument of Bayon. This monument, while currently undergoing repair, offers some beautiful examples of bas-relief wall carvings. These bas-reliefs depict ancient Buddhist stories and war conquests of the Khmer people hundreds of years ago. There is also an interesting mix of Buddhist and Hindu influences, as visitors find depictions of Shiva, Vishnu and other Hindu gods interspersed with the Buddhist images.

From Bayon, we walked north past the Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King. We viewed a couple other minor temples, and by 1pm, I was dying in the heat of the sun. We agreed to take a break, so my driver took me back to the hotel for a short siesta and picked me up again at 3pm for a 3-hour tour of Angkor Wat, the most famous of the Angkor treasures. Angkor Wat faces west, so it's best viewed in the grandeur of the afternoon light. It's actually a Hindu monument, and serves as a grand-scale mausoleum for the King who commissioned its construction - Suryavarman II, during the 12th century.

Angkor Wat is breath-taking. The sheer size and majesty of the structure is awesome. We took a good 2 hours to walk through the complex, and my tour guide provided explanations of the various Hindu bas-reliefs that adorn the walls of the structure. Buddhist monks and nuns tend the gounds of the Angkor complex, so the appearance of the safron-robed monks and shaved-head nuns engaged in prayer or meditation is a common sight.

We finished the day with a visit to Phnom Bakheng, a temple mountain northwest of Angkor Wat that rises 250 feet above the surrounding plain to afford visitors a birds-eye view of the entire Angkor complex. Sunset from this vantage point is incredible, especially with Angkor Wat serving as backdrop.

After an exhausting day of walking around the Angkor complex, I headed back to my hotel for a little air-conditioned relief. The following morning was spent walking around Siem Reap, doing some shopping, writing some postcards and packing my bags. That afternoon I flew back to Bangkok and connected onwards to Hong Kong and Los Angeles on Cathay Pacific, followed by a short flight home to Dallas.

This trip to Southeast Asia provided me with some unique insight into an area of the world that had, until just recently, seemed unsafe to visit. Both Vietnam and Cambodia offer visitors some incredible natural beauty and historical monuments. Though the internal conflict with the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s and 1980s resulted in a lot of deforestation in the area around Siem Reap, the area is now experiencing a renaissance of growth and development as foreign investment continues to pour into the area. New hotels with all the modern conveniences are springing up around the town. At the same time, I got the impression that the world has not yet realized the treasure that is Angkor, so the area is not yet overrun with tourism.

A couple of websites that I found helpful in planning this vacation include:

www.diethelmtravel.com
www.seacanoe.com

Happy Travels!

Mark

Travelogue - Egypt (November 1999)

It's been a while since I've written one of my
travelogues, and my vacation in Egypt last week with
a couple other AA colleagues merits a review, so here
it goes...

Our adventure started out on an Egyptair flight,
nonstop from Paris to Luxor. The 5-hour flight went
smoothly aboard the Boeing 747-300, and was made
nicer by the Egyptair Paris station manager bumping us up
to the First Class seats in the nose of the jumbo jet.
I was still tired from our transatlantic flight, so I
slept most of the way to Egypt.

Arrival in Luxor was a culture shock, as 150-200
people queued up for passport control - done on
Egyptian time (i.e. slowly!) Of course, no one told
you that you had to first buy your entry visa stamps
for USD$15 and then proceed through passport control.
It was left to your own intuition to figure that out.

We took a short cab ride to our Sheraton Hotel boat
and embarked on our 3-day Nile Cruise. The 70-room
boat was nice, and had all the amenities you could
need, including a doctor (for those nasty bouts with
King Tut's revenge!). We wound up with a triple
suite, and had plenty of room between the three of us.

Meals were included (buffet style) and there was a
nice sun deck on the top level, complete with on-deck
pool for a refreshing afternoon dip. Not bad for
$120/night/person! We overnighted dockside in Luxor.

Sunday morning we visited Karnak temple, just north of
town. The impressive, well-preserved, ancient temple
was covered in hieroglyphics, recanting the ancient
tales of Pharoahic conquests, glories and deification
ceremonies. Especially impressive was the hall of
columns and two obelisks. Some of the hieroglyphics
retained shades of their once vibrant reds, oranges,
blues and greens - even after 2,000-3,000 years of
constant basking in the presence of Sun-God Ra. (p.s.
I, myself, worshiped Ra for a couple of days and have
a nice, golden "King Tut" tan to show for it!) Next
we visited Luxor Temple and stood, amazed, at the
architectural mastery of this age-defying structure.

That afternoon we set sail upstream to broaden our
exposure to the ancient mysteries of Egypt.

On Monday, we visited two temples - one at Edfu,
dedicated to Horus, the Falcon God of protection).
This temple was fascinating due to how well-
preserved it has been through the ages. Part of the structure
had been buried in sand for centuries, effectively
preserving and protecting the intricate hieroglyphic
artwork. One highlight was taking a Caleche, or
horse-drawn carriage, between the boat and Edfu
temple. It felt like we stepped back in time, as
Caleches easily outnumbered cars in this small town
by a 5 to 1 ratio. By sunset we cruised further
southward to Kom Ombo. This riverside temple offered
some interesting hieroglyphics mocking the Egyptian's
Greek oppressors. Additionally, there was a spectacular sunset from the temple - westward across the Nile - the sun quickly being swallowed into a
sea of Saharan sand.

Tuesday we got up early in Aswan to disembark the boat
and catch our 30-minute flight from Aswan to Abu Simbel,
on the southern Egyptian border with Sudan.
This ancient monument features four towering, seated
statues of ancient Pharaohs guarding
hieroglyphic-adorned tombs. The sheer size and
majesty of the statues was incredible, but even more
interesting is the fact that this temple has been
moved from its original location to higher ground -
to make way for Lake Nasser (created by the opening of
the Aswan High Dam in the 1960s). 1 1/2-hour ground
time was sufficient to see Abu Simbel (a short,
3-minute complimentary bus ride from the airport
terminal). Upon return to Aswan we visited Philae
temple - an island just behind the Old Aswan Dam
which featured the Temple of Isis, among other ancient
ruins. We returned to Luxor by plane that afternoon
and settled in for a 2-night stay at the Luxor
Sheraton Resort.

Wednesday began early as we struck out to discover
the western Nile shores of Luxor. We proceeded to the
Valley of the Kings, and explored three ancient tombs
covered in hieroglyphics. Next was the Valley of the
Queens and the incredible Tomb of Nefertari. This
tomb is, perhaps, the best preserved of the area,
and the vibrant, colorful display of hieroglyphics
beautifully adorned the walls. Wednesday afternoon
was spent relaxing, pool side, back at the Sheraton.

Thursday we flew to Cairo and spent the afternoon
visiting the Egyptian Museum. The highlight there
was the incredible collection from King Tut's tomb.
Especially incredible was the world-famous golden
burial head mask, housed safely under glass. The
rest of the museum is a dizzying array of Egyptian
artifacts. Its the kind of place where you can
spend either two hours or two days, depending on how
in-depth you wish to discover it. Thursday night we
went to Giza, 20-25 minutes southwest of Cairo, to
watch the Laser/light show at the pyramids. It's
obviously tourist-oriented, but provided an
interesting nighttime perspective on the massive
monuments. The Sphinx was illuminated and served as
narrator during the 50-minute show.

On Friday morning we returned to Giza, this time to
discover it "Egyptian-style". Our desert caravan of
two camels and four horses (complete with local
guides) roamed the dunes to the south and west of
the great pyramids for a couple of hours. We stopped a
few times to take photos at prime spots.

I'd like to take a moment here to elaborate on the
camel. This single-humped Egyptian "ship of the
desert" is a smelly, cantankerous beast that is
given to batting its thick eyelashes, chewing its nasty,
green-colored cud and spitting at those whom it
dislikes. Further, the camel mount is akin to a
combination mechanical bull ride and lesson in some
tantric sexual technique as the beast first raises
its hind quarters, lunging its rider forward,
immediately followed by a jolting raise of the front quarters,
ricocheting the harried rider backwards. All this
while the ungodly beast burps, farts, hisses and
makes disgusting gurgling noises emitted from deep within
its body! The dismount is no less a harrowing
experience as the camel does a 3-point "plant" by
first kneeling forward, then bringing down its hind
quarters and finally sliding into a semi-comfortable
"rest" position. Having said all of this, there is
no better way to truly experience the pyramids than by
camel. It's an essential part of the whole Egyptian
experience. Just remember to hold on and lean
backwards during the mount/dismount!

On Saturday we went our separate ways and returned
home via Europe.

In summary, Egypt is a wonderful country to visit.
Its rich and colorful history is fascinating. It is not
a particularly "easy" trip, as visiting the temples,
tombs and pyramids under the relentless Egyptian sun
tires you quickly. We found it best to plan 1/2-day
sightseeing tours (7am-12pm or 8am to 1pm), followed
by lunch and a leisurely afternoon/evening. We
covered the entire length of Egypt, from Cairo, near
the mouth of the Nile river to Abu Simbel, nearly
600 miles to the South, right near the Sudanese border.
The highlights were undoubtedly the temples and
tombs of Luxor as well as the pyramids. Cairo is a huge,
sprawling metropolis with SEVERE pollution problems.

It makes LA's smoggy days look like a bright sunny
day in the country! Get in and get out as quickly as
possible. Two days in Cairo is more than enough.
Abu Simbel was impressive, but to be honest, I question
if it's worth the time and logistical effort it takes
to visit the monument. Those traveling on a limited
schedule can better spend their time exploring Luxor.

The Nile cruise was wonderful and I would wholeheartedly recommend it as an essential part of the Egyptian experience. 3-, 4- and 7-day cruises run
between Luxor and Aswan, and are provided by numerous
operators. The journey is smooth and comfortable -
you hardly feel you're moving on the water. October
through April is high season in Egypt, as these are
the cooler months of the year. As it was, highs
reached 90-95 in Aswan and Abu Simbel. Nights in
Cairo were cool and a jacket/sweater was necessary.
The only addition that would have made our trip
perfect was an extra 2-3 days to spend at Hurghada
or Sharm Al Sheik - to relax at the Red Sea and enjoy
some incredible scuba diving. That would have been
a great way to end the vacation.

So, pack your camel and head out on your own Indiana
Jones-style adventure in Egypt!

Happy Travels!

Mark

Dancing Drunken Shrimp & Heated Toilet Seats (January 2002)

I thought that title would get your attention...
Greetings from Mumbai, India. I am here on the final
leg of my 9-day circle Asia business trip. I wrote
the following travelogue as I was flying at 31,000
feet upper-deck business class on a JAL 747-400 from
Tokyo to Singapore on Monday. Sidenote: JAL's
inflight entertainment system features two video
channels with forward and downward facing "bird's eye"
cameras. They display the forward camera during
takeoff and landing. The cameras must be mounted in
the nose cone. Very cool!

Anyway, back to the shrimp. I arrived in Tokyo last
Thursday afternoon for a meeting with Japan Airlines
on Friday. Thursday evening, my Crossair vice
president and I were invited to dinner by a
representative of the Swiss Embassy in Tokyo. He
selected a traditional Chinese restaurant and
pre-ordered a special 9-course, sushi menu. After 2-3
of the light appetizer courses, a clear, covered glass
Pyrex bowl was placed at our table with five live
shrimp (one for each person). A waiter soon arrived
and proceeded to pour a high-alcohol content liquor
over the shrimp, causing them to flop about and become
drunk. A couple of minutes later, a waitress
returned, took the shrimp aside and proceeded to
remove their tail scales (gives new meaning to the
phrase "being skinned alive") and brought them back to
the table on individual plates. I looked down at my
little critter as he wiggled ever so lightly in his
euphoric, inebriated state state. I was told that one
should grab the tail in one hand, and the head in the
other, and bite the center tail section. I, along
with two of my dining companions, decided NOT to
partake. I try to keep an open mind, especially when
dining as a guest in a foreign culture, and in
principle, I enjoy sushi, but NOT when it's still
squirming before my very eyes!

Relieved that I had not lost face through this ordeal,
I was pleased to see the waitress take my shrimp away,
returning him, fully grilled, a few minutes later.
Much better!

Ok, on to the bathroom humor. Please bear with me, as
this is funny, not gross. I spent Sunday with my
Thunderbird alumni friend Lisa, who lives in Tokyo.
She and I enjoyed a leisurely walk along the external
perimeter of the Imperial Palace in central Tokyo.
After a while, we decided to have a coffee. We
stopped at the Palace Hotel and I excused myself to
use the facilities. As I stepped into a stall in the
men's room, I saw a peculiar-looking toilet seat with
a side attachment, bearing lights and curious buttons.
I immediately recalled a former American Airlines
colleague mentioning these unique Japanese toilet
seats. First, when one sits down, one is enveloped in
a ring of warmth -- yes, they are heated! Next, when
one is done with one's business, one can press a
button and receive a light, refreshing spritz of warm
water (think bidet for men) There were a couple other
buttons as well, but the writing was all in Japanese,
so I decided not to venture further. I figured one
was probably a blow dryer (ooo!), and the other a
buff-n-shine wax (my car should be so lucky at the car
wash!) I was thankful that the model upon which I was
seated did not include a spin-dry cycle button!

I emerged a few minutes later. I think the sly grin
on my face gave it away. I told Lisa that I couldn't
believe what a holistic lavatory episode I had just
experienced. She laughed and said "Oh yeah, we have
one at home too!" When we returned to her place, I
asked to borrow her digital camera to procure evidence
of this Japanese technological marvel for my doubtless
unbelieving friends in the West. But wait -- Lisa's
home commode went one step better: It included a
remote control!! I asked, dumbfoundedly "Do you ever
bother to LEAVE your bathroom when you're at home???"
I half expected to find a burger & fries button on the
remote control unit! My, my, my, we in the West have
such a long way to catch up!

As promised, attached are two digital pics which
provide proof of this plumbing miracle.

Vive la WC!

Mark

Travelogue - Penguin Parade (February 2002)

It is a beautiful, blue sky, sunny, COLD (25degrees F)
Saturday here in Zurich. Just returned from attending
the Penguin Parade at the zoo up the hill. It occurs
every day at 130pm - as long as the temperature is
below 40 degrees F.

Attached are two pics I took with my digital camera.
They are King Penguins from Antarctica - with the
beautiful red/orange band around their neck - and
today was perfect because of the snowcover for them to
walk on. They are so cute as they strut right past
you - only a foot or so away. Thought you guys would
enjoy.

Mark

Travelogue - Weekend Safari (May 2002)

This past week, I learned that I would have a
last-minute business trip to Johannesburg, South
Africa. Given my interest in, and familiarity with
the country, I gladly looked forward to the trip.

Luckily, the business meetings were on Friday, so a
colleague and I agreed to spend an extra day and enjoy
the local surroundings. We decided to head to the
Pilanesberg National Park – a safari park two hours
northwest of Johannesburg, adjacent to the Las
Vegas-esque Sun City. Given our limited time, we hired
a car and driver for the day. We set out early on
Saturday and headed west. En route, we passed a
beautiful boat-speckled reservoir and some incredible
wide-open vistas. It was reminiscent of parts of W.
Texas / New Mexico / Arizona.

We arrived at the park by 930am and began our
adventure. Pilanesberg is a fenced enclosure of
50,000 hectares (500 square km), and includes a
natural sampling of all of the typical African
wildlife. It’s convenient, because it’s so close to
Jo’burg, coupled with the fact that you can drive your
private car throughout the park on the well-marked
paved and dirt roads. Also of note is that
Pilanesberg lies in a malaria-free area, so it’s a
great introduction to safari life for those who are
squeamish about truly roughing it.

It was a beautiful, sunny, late autumn day. Not a
cloud anywhere to be seen. Even with the shortened
daylight hours, the brilliance of the sunlight on the
landscape was fascinating. We entered the park at the
Kwa Maritane Gate, then proceeded along dusty dirt
roads, passed beautiful outcrops, and through
amber-colored grasslands. Occasional trees and bushes
were enhanced with the beauty of fall foliage – set in
contrast against the stark blue sky. Incredible!

We came across a few antelope, springbok and bushbuck
– all deer-like animals. Our first big find was a
solitary hippo, wallowing in the comforts of a cool,
refreshing pond. Around a few more bends, and past a
few ruddy-looking warthogs, we encountered a group of
five giraffe – gracefully walking through the sparse
shrubbery, pausing occasionally to nibble on some
high-level leaves. They are such amazing creatures –
definitely one of my favorites in the African bush.
Next was the central reservoir of the park, which
included a resident troop of a dozen or so hippos,
along with a number of beautifully-colored wading
birds (herons, hornbills, etc.). Encountered a couple
groups of baboons as well.

After four hours of meandering along the dusty roads,
we stopped by a game lodge within the park for lunch.
We elected to dine on some local delights. I stuck
with a freshly grilled ostrich fillet, while my
colleague Rainer chose a three-skewer platter of
grilled ostrich, crocodile and Kudu (a large deer-like
animal – also the national animal of S. Africa, and
abundant in supply). I sampled the croc and kudu as
well. Not too bad!

We hit the road after lunch and proceeded to the
western part of the park. A lone road to the top of a
high outcrop revealed a breath-taking view of the wide
open valley and rolling hills below. En route, we
spotted a white rhino mother and her baby at a
distance from the road (sorry, too far for a good
pic!). By 430pm, the autumn sun was quickly falling
in the western sky, and we headed south to exit the
park. We saw a group of 4-5 cars on the side of the
road, and were delighted to see a gang of four young
male lions, casually making their way through the
rolling grasslands.

Just past the southern park gate is the resort of Sun
City. It’s a Las Vegas-esque entertainment and casino
complex. Sun City was the focal point of protests by
entertainers from around the world during the former
Apartheid days, who proclaimed ”I’m not gonna play Sun
City” back in the mid-80s. We stopped by for a few
minutes to take a look. It is a lush oasis in
contrast to its arid surroundings. The highlight was
the high-end hotel called The Lost City – truly
beautiful architecture – with immaculately designed
landscapes, waterfalls, lush palm groves, etc.
However, this man-made Disneyland can in no way
compare to the natural beauty of Pilanesberg National
Park – just over the hill behind the resort.

In summary, Pilanesberg is a great daylong getaway
from Johannesburg, especially for those who have never
been on safari before, or just want a taste of
“safari-light”. Our only disappointment was not
seeing any elephants. They exist in the park, but we
didn’t see any. It’s all a matter of luck and timing.
There are no guarantees! Entry fee to the park is a
mere 20 Rand (less than $2 per adult). The South
African economy is not doing well right now, and the
Rand has devalued significantly against other major
currencies, resulting in some amazing bargains for
vacationers from around the world. South Africa is
such a beautiful and blessed country – full of natural
flora and fauna. I can’t wait to go back for a 10-day
holiday in late November!

For more information on Pilanesberg National Park, go
to:

http://www.parks-nw.co.za/pilanesberg/

Enjoy!

Mark

Travelogue – Santorini: Atlantis Rediscovered (June 2002)

Last week I had the wonderful opportunity to visit one
of the most beautiful and unique islands in the world
– the picturesque isle of Santorini. I last visited
Santorini, or Thira, as the locals call it, back in
1987, and eagerly awaited the chance to return. My
friend Brad and I decided to head to the Greek islands
for an early summer getaway. After a day of hanging
around Athens, climbing up to the Acropolis and
meandering through the myriad cobblestone streets of
the ancient Agora and Plaka, we headed out to
Santorini for four wonderful days of sun and sea.

Caught a quick 35-minute flight on Aegean Airlines
from the new Athens airport to Santorini. Countless
islands dotted the beautiful azure seas,
simultaneously baked by the direct summer sun and
cooled by the constant Aegean tradewinds.

Santorini is part of the Cyclades islands chain, and
the island enjoys a rich history of myth and lore.
Around 1650 BC, a cataclysmic volcanic eruption
occurred on the island, causing its center to
collapse, and leaving a hollowed-out caldera
surrounded by spectacular cliffs. It is truly one of
the world’s most dramatic geological sights. Some
archeologists suspect that the apocalyptic volcanic
explosion led to the demise of the entire Minoan
civilization (recall the ash and soot from the Mt. St.
Helen’s explosion in the early 1980s – multiply that
times 5 to get an idea of the distructive nature of
the Santorini eruption.) The island’s violent
geothermal past has given fodder to the imaginations
of writers, artists and mystics throughout the
centuries that have followed. Volcanic activity has
subsided greatly during the past few centuries, but
minor tremors are still common.

Fira is the capital, and lies at the center of the
island on the eastern side of the caldera. The small,
whitewashed village clings to the craggy volcanic
cliffs, some 300 meters above the caldera bay below.
The bay is, in fact, so deep, that ships are unable to
drop anchor, and instead must link to one of a couple
of buoys anchored near the manmade docks. We stayed
at a beautiful villa in neighboring Firostefani – a
short 10-minute walk north of the center of Fira town.
The villas were terraced, each with its own balcony
looking out westward over the impressive caldera.
Sunsets were, needless to say, breathtaking!

http://www.minavillas.gr/

We rented a car for one day and explored the island.
Some highlights included a stop at the black sand
Perissa beach, a hike around the lighthouse on the
island's southwesternmost tip, and a leisurely
afternoon stroll along the colorful alleyways of Oia,
on the northwestern tip. Enroute, we enjoyed drives
alongside beautiful orchards of olive trees and
vineyards. Greek Orthodox churches abound, and all
include the trademark blue dome that is so world
renown as typically Santorini. Eucalyptus trees
provided occasional shade from the blaring midday sun.
The brilliant flowers of bougainvillea bushes stood
out against the whitewashed buildings and
crystal-clear blue skies.

Another day we took a sailing trip around the caldera,
which included a stop for a hike on the volcanic cone
island at the middle of the caldera, and a neighboring
islet with natural hot springs. We subsisted most of
the week on wonderful Greek salads (tomatoes,
cucumbers and delicious feta cheese) and grilled
calamari. Yum!

One highlight was on our final morning on the island,
when we were searching for a place to have breakfast.
We saw this sign that read “Mama’s Breakfast Café”,
with the catchline “Mama loves you babies!” As we
took a picture of the sign, we heard Mama call out to
us “Hi Handsomes! Come on in!” We couldn’t resist,
and were soon greeted with a big hug and kiss by this
bubbly 50-something Greek woman. Brad returned her
kiss on the cheek, to which she promptly retorted
“This is all business here, Honey. I’m still gonna
take your money!” Mama then asked us what we wanted
for breakfast, and proceeded to whip up a feast for
us, her first customers of the day. We couldn’t leave
the place without receiving another hug and kiss from
Mama, along with her instructions to be sure and
return soon. WE LOVE MAMA!!!

June is the ideal time to visit Greece, prior to the
invasion of European sunseekers who throng to the
islands during the July/August peak season. The
weather was perfect – hot sunny days and cool,
comfortable nights. Amazing. Santorini is definitely
one place not to be missed!

Yassou!

Mark

Travelogue: Opera - Italian Style (July 2002)

I just returned from a weekend in Verona, Italy. Yes,
the town made famous by the Shakespearean tale of
Romeo and Juliet plays host to an 80-year old summer
opera festival. This year's two month Arena di Verona
features a daily rotation among five classic operas:
Aida, Carmen, Il Trovatore, Nabucco and Tosca. I had
heard excellent reviews of last year’s performances,
so five friends and I made plans in January for this
weekend getaway. We settled on Nabucco, the tale of
love and betrayal among the Hebrews living in ancient
Babylon.

On Friday afternoon, I caught a mid-afternoon flight
from Zurich to Lugano. The hop over the Alps lasted a
whopping 25 minutes aboard the 50-seat Saab 2000
turboprop. It was a crystal clear day, and I enjoyed
gazing down at the beautiful, snow capped peaks as we
buzzed over the backbone of Europe. Upon arrival, I
transferred to the train station for my onward 3-hour
rail journey to Verona via Milan.

My friends from Munich made hotel reservations at a
charming hotel along the eastern shore of Lago di
Garda, a short 20-minute drive west of Verona.

www.gardengarda.it

Saturday morning, we met at the pool for a refreshing
pre-breakfast swim in the pool. The bright morning
light beckoned us out to the westward-facing balcony,
unveiling, in succession, the grapevine latticework
in the foreground, the inviting pool, the tennis
courts, the quaint village of Garda and the vast Lago
di Garda. Following breakfast, we meandered through
the narrow, cobblestone streets of the old town,
shopping along the way. In the early afternoon, we
headed to Verona and stopped at a supermarket to stock
up on our evening picnic supplies. Fresh cheese,
salami, pesto, foccacia, chianti and San Pelligrino
overflowed from our baskets.

We forged onward in search of a parking lot close to
the arena, and proceeded to queue-up for the gates to
open two hours prior to the 915pm performance. We had
open seating tickets, so we hurried to mark our
desired spot in our section. The evening picnic in
the centuries-old Roman amphitheatre ensued. Hordes
of other entertainment-seeking tourists and local
opera enthusiasts poured into the stands and claimed
their spots on the tiered stone slabs. One-third of
the amphitheatre has been closed off, yielding room
for an enormous stage, with the back end of the arena
serving as an impressive, graduated backdrop.

The weather was ideal – a clear, moonlit night
provided the perfect natural canopy. Dusk settled in
around 9pm, and the performance commenced soon after.
The pomp and pageantry of the venue was amazing.
Though not self-described as an opera aficionado, I
couldn’t help but be impressed as I soaked up the
ambiance of the setting. The emotion and accompanying
music ebbed and flowed throughout the evening as the
Verdi saga unfolded. The vocal performances were
stellar, as evidenced by the occasional “Brava!” or
“Bravissimo, Giacomo!” was verbally lauded on an
actress or actor by an adoring fan following a
particularly moving scene. It was a joy to behold the
sheer passion with which the Italians love and support
their opera. Oh yeah, and in case you were wondering:
it wasn’t over until the fat lady sang!

Three hours and fifteen minutes later (including two
25-minute intermissions), at half-past midnight, the
performance came to a close. The crowd erupted into
thunderous applause with accompanying standing
ovation. Yet another night of success at this gem of
an opera festival.

After sleeping in on Sunday morning, followed by
breakfast, a leisurely poolside repose and a quick
jaunt to the local gelateria, we caught our
mid-afternoon train across the fertile plains of
northern Italy, back to Milan and onwards to Zurich,
arriving home some five hours later.

www.arena.it

Arena di Verona’s current season runs through
September 1st. The 2 ½ month summer season has
already been posted for 2003 on the website. The
festival has gained a loyal following over the years,
so it’s best to book early. So, head on over to
Verona and soak-up some Italian culture. You won’t
regret it!

Ciao,

Mark

Travelogue - Weekend in Provence (July 2002)

My summer weekend trips have come back-to-back this
year, as I just returned from a weekend in Provence.
The driving decision behind going at this particular
time of year was the fact that the world-famous
lavender fields are in bloom from June through
early-August. The fragrant flower is harvested during
the latter part of this period as well. I mentioned
the idea to my friend Philip from Zurich, and he was
interested, so I invited him to join me.

On Friday afternoon, we flew from Basel to Marseille.
Upon arrival, we picked up our sporty Alfa Romeo
rental car and headed 15 km northeast to a hotel on
the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence. I had not
previously visited this city of 140,000 - famous as a
university town, and known for serving as the cultural
heart of Provence. We strolled through the pedestrian
areas of the vieille ville (old town) and soaked in
the beauty and ambiance of the charming town.

Saturday morning, we started the day with breakfast on
the terrace by the pool, with the bright, morning sun
streaming down on the beautiful garden surroundings.
We then drove over the hills north of Aix-en-Provence,
into the Luberon valley - the heart of the lavender
region. Our mission was simple - find a lavender
field in full bloom. En route, we came across a
beautiful sea of sunflowers, all in perfect alignment,
dutifully facing Ra.

After passing through Apt and heading further
northwest, we came upon the perfect setting: a
lavender field in peak bloom, where a farmer and his
teenage son had just started mechanical harvesting. A
large piece of farm equipment straddled the rows of
ripe lavender, clipped the fragrant stalks and left a
trimmed hedge of the base/roots of the plants. The
lavender was then packed down in a bin, and
transferred to a larger truck for transport to the
processing plant. The lavender straw is steam pressed
so that the oils are extracted and used for fragrance.
Having long been a fan of lavender, it was a pleasure
to watch its harvesting in progress.

Next we came upon the Abbaye de Sénanque, an abbey
dating back to the 10th century which is nestled in a
narrow canyon of the Vaucluse plateau. Unfortunately,
the monks had already harvested their ample supply of
lavender, which fills the fields leading up to the
religious complex. Still, the grounds were beautiful,
and the giftshop provided a wealth of goodies for
eager tourists.

Our day trip took a decidedly different twist, as we
transitioned from the sacred to the sadistic. We
headed back east toward Apt to the tiny town of
Lacoste. Atop the hill behind the village lies the
chateau of the notorious Marquis de Sade. The estate
now lies in ruins (except for the S&M chamber in the
cellar - ha-ha!), but served as a retreat during the
1770s for the kinky aristocrat following his expulsion
from Parisian society. The stroll around the grounds
failed to provide a sense of titillation one might
expect, but the novelty of the visit was fun. Feather
flagellation fetish, anyone?

We proceeded westward to visit Les Baux de Provence -
a hilltop enclave of chalk-white bauxite outcroppings
which rise up from the surrounding Rhone river delta
plain. This area was originally settled by the
ancient Greeks, and later by the Romans - the latter
of whose characteristic landmarks (arenas, aqueducts,
etc.) still dot the region. Worn out by the hot
afternoon sun, we cut short our visit to Les Baux and
headed back to the hotel in Aix for a refreshing dip
in the pool.

A couple of hours later, we ventured 20km south to
Marseille. The city that has long held the reputation
of being a seedy, dangerous port, has cleaned up its
act in recent years. Yes, Marseille still have a ways
to go, but the waterfront area of the historic Vieux
Port provided a wonderful backdrop for an evening
stroll and wonderful, fresh seafood dinner. Another
walk after dinner yielded some refreshing, cool
maritime breezes coming off the Mediterranean.

Sunday morning, we returned to the coastline,
southeast of Marseille, to visit the Calanque de
Morgiou. The calanques are a series of narrow inlets
from the Mediterranean sea, stretching from Marseille
some 20km eastward to Cassis. The calanques are
girded on both sides by high chalky-white hills. The
water of these inlets is a beautiful turquoise color,
with amazing clarity. Swimmers, sun-worshipers and
fisherman line the narrow coves and coastline
outcroppings.

After a quick jaunt back through Marseille, it was on
to the airport for our return flight back home to
Switzerland.

Provence is a beautiful and unique region of France
that should not be missed. It affords tourists an
amazing array of activities, ranging from visiting
historical landmarks to bike riding past lavender
fields and olive tree groves, to hiking, swimming and
sunbathing. The area has such a wealth of offerings,
and embodies the richness of what life has to offer,
from beautiful surroundings to wonderful climate to
incredible cuisine. Rich, bold, vibrant hues of
yellow, orange, red, green and blue comprise the
provençal palette, and can found in abundance in the
surrounding scenery. It's no surprise that Provence
has lured so many artists and philosophers as
residents, among them Van Gogh, Cezanne, Nostradamus
and others. How could Van Gogh not paint the amazing
brilliance of a starry provençal night or a blazing
field of sunflowers?

Vive la Provence!

Happy Travels!

Mark

p.s. The Lonely Planet book "Provence & the Cote
d'Azur" served as an important reference source for
this trip. I'd highly recommend this as an addition
to any francophile's personal travel library.

Travelogue - Hong Kong (August 2002)

When I recently learned that I would have a business
trip to Hong Kong, I was excited at the prospect of
returning to this amazing city. Though I had visited
the former British colony a couple of times before,
they had been short stays. Thus, I decided to
maximize my time on this trip through spending the
weekend following my business mtgs on Thurs/Fri.
Typhoon rains early in the week gave way to clear,
sunny skies by week's end. I've always been
fascinated by the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong.
Yes, New York might be the City that Never Sleeps, but
Hong Kong has got to be the City that Never Stops!

I stayed at the Royal Garden Hotel on the Kowloon
peninsula, just across the harbor from Hong Kong
Island. The business/financial center was a short
5-minute hop away via the frequent Star ferry. The
hotel was beautiful, and serves as our crew hotel for
Swiss flight staff on layover. The rooftop pool and
net-enclosed tennis court offer spectacular views of
surrounding Kowloon, and across to the skyline of Hong
Kong Island.

Thursday night, I joined some Swiss colleagues for
dinner at a small restaurant on neighboring Lamma
Island - a 45-minute boat ride from Central, located
southwest of Hong Kong Island. A freshly prepared
seafood meal of scallops, shrimp, lobster, etc. was a
feast for the eyes as well as the palate. En route
back to Central, we cruised through Aberdeen harbor,
surrounded by the famous Chinese Junk floating
restaurants.

On Friday afternoon, a buddy from work, Beat, arrived
to enjoy the weekend. We took a bus to Victoria peak,
which offered amazing views looking down on central
Hong Kong some 300 meters below. We descended on the
famous Victoria peak tram, encountering drops of 45
degrees and greater during the 10-minute cable train.
Afterwards, we returned to Kowloon and found an
off-the-beat restaurant. We turned out to be the only
"round-eyes" in the place during the entire evening
(i.e. it was a local joint not frequented by
tourists!) We started with a lobster sushi appetizer,
followed by mouth-watering dishes of broiled scallops
and lemon duck. Yum!

Early Saturday afternoon saw us sweating it out with
an hour-long rooftop tennis match at the hotel. Then
we went shopping in the commercial area of Causeway
Bay. An early evening dinner followed at a new
Japanese restaurant called Wasabi Sabi. The place had
the coolest decor - ultra hip and chic. Minimalist,
low lit black theme, enhanced by an underlit catwalk
platform entry to the dining area, highlighted by
halogen spot lights. Buddha Bar-like New Age music
provided cool background tones. Dinner was a
sumptuous offering of fresh salmon and tuna sushi,
grilled calamari and tempura shrimp, capped off by a
couple of shots of saki. Next, we ventured to the
night market in Kowloon's Mongkok district. Tourists
flocked through the make-shift stalls, searching for
bargains among the fake Rolexs, Louis Vuitton
knock-offs and inexpensive clothing.

Commenced Sunday with a wake-up swim. The rooftop
laps were just the thing to kick-off the day on a
bright note. We then headed back to Central (again on
the Star ferry) to catch a boat to neighboring Lantau
Island, home to the Po Lin Monastery and its famous
mountaintop Buddha statue - the largest such sitting
Buddha statue of its kind in the world. Lantau is
also home to the new Hong Kong International Airport
(an architecturally beautiful structure), which opened
some 5 years ago. Additional development is underway
on the island on the site of the world's newest
Disneyland, slated to open in phases, beginning in
2005. Took a quick 25-minute hydrofoil trip back to
Central, followed by a stop off at our newly-favorite
drink shop for a cool and refreshing Mango/Coconut
milk/Sago (tapioca-like mix) shake. Back to the hotel
for an afternoon workout and pool side repose.

After checking out of our hotel, we swung past the
famous Peninsula Hotel, consistently rated as one of
the finest hotels in the world. Enjoyed a drink at
the lobby bar, and then headed to Kowloon station for
our 20-minute express train ride back out to the
airport for our 1130pm departure to Zurich.
Unfortunately, the flight was severely overbooked, so
even my business pass ticket was not firm. Luckily,
my friend Beat's pilot's license yielded him a cockpit
jumpseat. I was re-accommodated on Monday morning
with a flight home on KLM via Amsterdam.

The latest trip to Hong Kong affirmed my earlier-held
notion - that Hong Kong is truly my favorite city in
Asia. The city of 7 million is alive and buzzing. It
is blessed with a beautiful harbor. The high peaks of
Hong Kong island are reminiscent of the natural beauty
to be found in Rio De Janeiro. One thing that
particularly impressed me during this visit was how
clean Hong Kong seemed. The streets and sidewalks
were, for the most part, litter-free. This stands out
in contrast to the dusty, dirty streets of other Asian
cities like Beijing, Bangkok and Bombay. Another
thing I've always admired about Hong Kong is the
city's myriad of transportation modes - from the
convenient, efficient airport express trains, to Star
Ferry, to the MTR metro system, to the old-fashioned
trams, to the hydrofoil and hydrojet services to/from
Macau. Hong Kong is a vibrant city that offers
business and pleasure travelers a wealth of things to
see and do. So, when you want to experience a taste
of Asia, head to Hong Kong!

Happy Travels!

Mark

Travelogue - Snowmobiling at the Top of the World (February 2003)

A couple of months ago, my longtime AA friend and former colleague, Jim, invited me to join him and a merry band of fellow AAers for a weekend getaway to the
Winter Wonderland of northern Finland. We agreed to venture to the Great White North in mid-February, when daylight hours would again return to the region, and
a healthy snow pack was a sure bet.

As talk of impending war and increasing economic downturn prevailed, our group dwindled down to just Jim and me. Never fear, the two of us veteran travel
buddies forged ahead with our plans.

Flew up to Helsinki after work last Thursday, stayed overnight, and embarked on the Arctic expedition the following day. Caught a morning flight to Kittila,
some 500 miles (820 km) due north of Helsinki. The 1.5 hour flight was uneventful, and soon we found ourselves landing in the heart of Lapland, 150 km north of
the Arctic Circle. In Western Hemisphere latitudinal terms, Kittila lies north of Iceland and the lower 1/3 of Greenland, roughly equivalent to the northern
shoreline of Alaska (Prudhoe Bay, etc.)

We landed on the small, snow-covered, asphalt strip surrounded by a sea of white. Heavily snow-laden evergreens abounded in nearby forests. The temperature was
a relatively comfortable 0 degrees Celsius (this, a blessing, considering that the area had recently experienced temperatures as low as 20'C!!) The air was
still, cool and crisp. My lungs inhaled and exhaled the healthy, pure oxygen-rich air with delight.

Upon arrival at the hotel, Jim, who had arrived the day prior, had already made plans for our afternoon snowmobile safari. We agreed upon a 3-hour trek.
Mounting the machine quickly reminded me of the snowmobiling I had done while growing up in Upstate New York. O course, snowmobile technology has improved
greatly over the past 25 years! New features like electronic start, forward/reverse, adjustable-warmth, heated handlebars, etc. has made the experience much more pleasant and enjoyable.

Miles upon miles of snowmobile tracks lay in the greater Kittila/Levi area. It was a thrill to open-up the throttle on the track. At times, I felt like I was
in a Soviet-era James Bond film, adroitly outmaneuvering the imaginary KGB agents in hot pursuit. Actually, it was only Jim behind me! He opted to take up the
rear, so that he could observe how high into the air my happy butt bounced as I moguled my way across the dips and bumps of the washboard track. (Thanks, Jim!)
After about two hours, we stopped at a teepee shaped wooden hut for a mid-adventure break of hot coffee and a snack. We sat on tanned reindeer skins as we
huddled close to the warmth of the central fire.

We continued, onward and upward, to the summit of Levi Mountain, and gazed down on the foggy valley below, with the beautiful, crystal-clear arctic sunset in the
southwestern horizon. A peaceful, dreamlike blue hue settled over the entire scene. Amazing.

The sun rose at around 8am, and set around 5pm - far longer than what I had anticipated I would encounter at those high latitudes. Still, the evenings were not
cold and dark, but rather the snow-covered landscape glistened a blue glow throughout the night, illuminated by the bright moon above. No problem skiing or
snowmobiling into the evening hours.

We dined on reindeer the first evening. Yes, I had to sample a bite of Rudolph, as this is the region's main culinary specialty. The taste was pleasant and
non-gamey, unlike some deer meat I've tasted before.

The next morning we set out for our reindeer ride. Went to a reindeer farm where some local Laplanders tended to a herd of 20 or so animals. A couple of
Santa's beasts were quickly harnessed up, and attached to sleighs to take Jim and I on a 10-minute loop of the property. My reindeer quickly picked up speed,
while Jim's got off to a slow start. After we rounded the first turn, my beast erupted into a full gallop, as I screamed "Fly, damnit, Fly!!" I glanced down at
the sleigh's odometer as we passed V1, and watched as the hooves began to rotate and lift skyward. Ah, the feeling of flight in a reindeer-drawn sleigh! Such
magic only occurs in Lapland...

Once back on terra firma, we bid Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Donner and Blitzen goodbye, and headed back to town for a couple hours of
relaxation in a Finnish sauna.

In summary, Kittila is a great place to go if you want to get away for a few days of wintertime fun and adventure - plus a hearty dose of Lappish culture as
well. The peaceful, serene, natural setting is a far cry from the hustle and bustle of our modern, urban lives. So, head up north - way north - and see if
Rudolph and his friends will let you join in any reindeer games!

Happy Travels!

Mark

Travelogue - Sri Lanka: Exotic Island of Serendipity (March 2003)

Serendipity: The faculty of making fortunate
discoveries by accident.

I was pleased when I learned, a few weeks ago, that I
would have a business trip to Sri Lanka. This
tear-shaped island off the southeastern coast of India
has always held a special fascination in my mind.
Initially, I guess it was just the name: Sri Lanka.
So exotic-sounding to me as a teenager. Then my
interest grew as I learned how diverse and
ecologically-varied this tropical island is.

The island, 150 miles wide, and 300 miles long, has a
population of app. 20 million people, 2 million of
whom reside in metro Colombo. The population is
religiously diverse, with 70% Buddhist, 15% Hindu,
7.5% Christian and 7.5% Muslim. Many staple foods and
products which we take for granted in our lives are
produced here: coffee, world-famous tea, rice,
rubber, spices, bananas, coconuts, pineapples and a
myriad of other tropical fruits and vegetables. My
favorite Sri Lankan fruit: the purple-colored
mangosteen, with its succulent, fleshy white core.

Following four days of aeropolitical talks with
government officials (updating the Air Services
Agreement between Switzerland and Sri Lanka),
commercial talks with Sri Lankan Airlines, dinner at
the Swiss Ambassador’s residence, etc. I extended my
stay over the weekend, and ventured into the
countryside. I had visited Sri Lanka twice before, in
March 1989 and March 2002. Both previous trips left
an indelible print on my mind that compelled me to
return – and stay longer.

Upon the advice of some airline colleagues, I decided
to venture back to the cultural heartland of the
Ancient Capitals, in the north central part of the
island. Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya had
made such distinct impressions on me in 1989, that I
eagerly awaited a return visit to the area. However,
I also wanted to visit the northeastern port city of
Trincomalee, reputed to have one of the world’s finest
natural harbors, and an historically important way
station a couple of centuries ago for trade ships
plying the seas between Europe and the Far East,
around the Cape of Africa. “Trinco”, as it’s called,
had been off limits in 1989, as it was considered
unsafe at the time due to the presence of the militant
separatist Tamil Tigers. However, the peace process
was hastened, following the global anti-terrorist
sentiments post 9/11, and ongoing talks for a lasting
peace between the majority (Buddhist) Sinhalese and
minority (Hindu) Tamil factions are progressing. It
is hoped that a lasting, long-term settlement can be
found soon. Fortunately, the current cease-fire has
held for a number of months, and an air of optimism
can be detected among the nationals.

We set out at 6am from the southwestern capital of
Colombo, arriving some 6 hours later in Trinco. Sri
Lanka’s infrastructure is poor following 20 years of
civil unrest and violence. Thus, only secondary roads
span the country, and max speed is usually 30-50
km/hour, while dodging trunks and passenger-laden
buses on the narrow routes. A new, express highway
linking Colombo with its international airport, some
25km to the north, will open next year. Further work
is currently underway on a major highway, extending
from Jaffna in the north to Galle in the south. This
major artery is expected to ease congestion and
significantly improve domestic travel times.

Stopped at a seaside resort in Nilaveli for lunch.
Beautiful, unspoiled, nearly deserted white sand
beaches stretch for miles in either direction.
Multiple military check-points were encountered
throughout the Trinco region, following an incident
earlier in the week where a boat just off the coast
refused to identify neither the contents of its cargo,
nor its last port of call, and was summarily blown out
of the water by a Sri Lankan navy gunboat. However,
as a day tourist I felt safe, and enjoyed lunch at the
beach, as well as a visit to Trinco’s sacred Hindu
shrine (Swami Rock) on a small, hilled peninsula
jutting into the open sea. The bright, colorful Hindu
temple glistened in the hot, noonday sun. Also of
note was Lover’s Leap, right next to the shrine, where
legend holds that, after her seafaring lover set sail
yet again, a young lady leapt to her death in the
crashing surf some 100 metres below.

The two-hour road trip back to Dambulla was laced with
beautiful vistas of rice paddies, open grasslands and
tanks – huge man-made reservoirs dating back several
centuries as a means of regulating the water supply
between the humid monsoon and dry seasons. We saw a
host of resident birdlife, several mongooses
(mongeese?) scampering across the roadway, some
spotted deer, and even a couple of wild elephants.

We arrived at Kandalama, near Dambulla, in the late
afternoon. This 160-room hotel, built into the
hillside overlooking a vast tank, offers the visitor a
unique blend of nature, practicality and comfort, and
serves as a model for bio-friendly eco-tourism. The
resort was designed by a famous Sri Lankan architect,
and opened in 1992. A variety of adventurous
activities are available to guests, including nature
hikes, horseback riding, forest treks atop an
elephant, river safaris, fishing and boat rides.
Also, Kandalama is centrally located within a 30-90
minute drive of several historical, cultural and
religious sites. Here’s a link to this amazing
resort:

http://www.aitkenspencehotels.com/kandalama/index_nonflash.htm

The next morning, I decided to return to my favorite
site of Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle: Sigiriya.
This monolith rises 200 meters above the surrounding
plains and rice paddies, and is a UNESCO world
heritage site. Sigiriya dates back to the 5th
century, A.D., and served as a walled and moated royal
capital from that period. It’s strategic location and
vantage point is readily obvious to any visitor. After
the fall of the ancient empire, the site served as a
Buddhist monastery for several centuries. The
mountaintop complex comprised an elaborate series of
gardens, pools and palace buildings, of which only
ruins remain today. However, the Sri Lankan Cultural
Fund has been faithfully restoring the entire complex,
and the grounds today offer the visitor a peaceful,
tranquil “stairmaster-charged” cultural experience.
The ascent can be comfortably done in 45-60 minutes,
including water, rest and photo-op breaks. Also
included at the site are the famous Apsara fresco
paintings of court maidens, with their elaborate
costumes and ornaments. These pictorial gems adorn
the walls of a hollowed-out enclosure half-way up the
rock. Sigiriya offers the visitor an amazing and
unique cultural step back in time, while providing a
brisk morning physical workout as well!

This trip to Sri Lanka solidified my notion of Sri
Lanka as being my favorite exotic country. The wealth
of natural beauty, resources and cultural treasures
that this island of Serendib offers is truly unique
and amazing. It is unfortunate that little is known
or appreciated about Sri Lanka, especially in the
States. Though half a world away, Sri Lanka deserves
greater attention and promotion. With the bright
prospects of lasting peace and stability on the
horizon, coupled with some ambitious infrastructure
improvement projects, and increasing foreign
investment, I believe that Sri Lanka is uniquely
poised to be the dynamic economic Tiger of South Asia
in the coming decade.

I hope to again return to this magical island sometime
in the near future, and spend even more time
soaking-up its unique blend of nature, culture and
history. Come to Sri Lanka, a land like no other!

Happy Travels!

Mark

Travelogue - Dive Fiji! (June 2003)

Crystal clear blue waters. Coral-reef lined tropical
islands. Sun. Sand. Adventure. Bula! (hello), and
welcome to Fiji. I just spent the past five days
visiting this beautiful South Pacific paradise.
Business meetings last week in Tokyo, and other
meetings next week in Sydney, provided the perfect
excuse to break away and savor a taste of Fiji.
Reconnecting with a long-lost friend also added to the
incentive of stopping over in this island nation.

Fiji encompasses over 300 islands in the Southwestern
Pacific ocean, some 2100 km north of New Zealand. The
largest island is Viti Levu, which is home to 75% of
Fiji’s population of 775,000. The balance of the
citizens reside on the other 100 or so inhabited
islands. Indigenous Fijians comprise 50% of the total
population, with Fijian Indians making up 45%. The
Fijian Indians were initially brought to the islands
as indentured servants to work the sugar cane fields
between 1880 and 1919 during the British colonial
period. Agriculture is Fiji’s primary industry, with
sugar cane as the main product. Tourism is the second
largest industry for the country. English is the
official language.

I had long heard of Fiji as a scuba paradise, and I
was readily happy to dive in and sample the offerings.
Beautiful and varied coral – brain, crown of thorns,
sea anemone, parrotfish, clownfish, angelfish, and a
host of other common tropical varieties call Fiji’s
warm tropical waters home. Water temperature and
visibility was excellent. The sighting of an
occasional octopus, stingray or giant sea cucumber
provided additional moments of delight during the
dives. Next dive holiday: the Maldives in late ’03 or
early ’04.

May through October is the dry season in Fiji,
providing hot, sunny days, and cool, comfortable
nights, all with low humidity. June is a perfect time
of year to visit.

I spent a couple of days visiting a friend from my
high school years. James, and his wife Ima, recently
relocated from Hawaii to oversee a missions program in
Ima’s native Fiji. It was fun catching up on the
events of the past few years and reminiscing about old
times growing up in Upstate New York. James and I did
a day tour along Viti Levu’s southern Coral Coast, and
on to Suva, the island’s political and commercial
capital, some 190 km east of Nadi (pronounced Nandi in
Fijian). The city of Suva is busy preparing to host
the South Pacific Games, a sort of regional Olympic
games. Over 4500 athletes from 22 member countries
will converge on the capital city June 28-July 12.
The entire country of Fiji is extremely proud to be
hosting the event.

Numerous outdoor adventurous activities are available
in Fiji. I enjoyed a peaceful post-breakfast sea
kayaking tour across the bay at the Sheraton resort to
a nearby offshore island. What a exhilarating way to
start the day! Also took a ride on JetFiji, a
jet-powered speedboat that zooms along the narrow
mangrove-lined canals of the Nadi river, spinning
periodic 360’s on a virtual dime, and providing riders
with quite a thrill. JetFiji is affiliated with the
world-famous Shotover falls jetboat of Queenstown, NZ,
and the watercraft of the same genre.

Finished off the Fijian holiday with a day-long cruise
aboard the SeaSpray, a 40’foot schooner that plies the
waters of the Mamanuca island chain, located west of
Nadi. A highlight included a 2-hour break on Monuriki
island, made famous as the shooting location for Tom
Hank’s recent film, Castaway. The uninhabited,
windswept island provided a perfectly peaceful respite
of relaxation for a couple of hours. Coconut palm
trees swayed in the steady tradewinds, and the
surrounding waters proved to be a snorkeler’s tropical
delight. I went on a brief scavenger hunt of the
island, but failed to locate any lost FedEx packages
or smiley-face soccerballs. Sorry, Tom!

Happy Travels!

Mark

Travelogue – Beautiful Bali (June 2003)

Following some business meetings in Australia, and
prior to meetings in Hong Kong, I found that I had a
free weekend, and decided to return to Bali. This
unique and beautiful tropical island is nestled at the
heart of the 4000-mile wide Indonesian archipelago.
This uniquely Hindu island of three million
inhabitants, set in the middle of Muslim nation of
Indonesia, is a cultural gem.

I had visited Bali 6½ years ago, and was eager to
return. I was concerned with how this island’s
tourism-dependent economy had been devastated by the
terrorist attack at a nightclub in the seaside resort
town of Kuta last October. Quite simply, I wanted to
throw some of my tourist dollars their way.

Given my short time on the island (some 50 hours), I
decide to concentrate my time between the northern
coastline town of Lovina and the southern resort town
of Nusa Dua. I had read that Lovina was famous for
the playful dolphins that beckon eager tourists out
into the open sea for sunrise cruises. Being the
dolphin fanatic that I am, I knew this was a
pilgrimage that must be pursued!

After the 530am wake-up call, we assembled at the
beach to set off at 6am in the motorized outrigger
canoes. A whole platoon of boats headed out in search
of dorsal fins and breaching cetaceans. After about
45 minutes in the placidly calm offshore waters, some
dolphins were spotted. The boats turned and raced in
hot pursuit. One of the things I have always admired
about dolphins is that they can’t be possessed. The
best you can hope for is to enjoy the brief moments
when they surface and frolic at the surface. The
playful, carefree attitude of these remarkable
creatures never ceases to amaze me. Though the
encounter was brief, the memories are lasting.

Once back on shore, I collected my bags and set out
for the central part of the island. I wanted to
return to the Artisan town of Ubud – to again gaze at
the amazing artistry of the locals. Balinese art is
so expressive and beautiful. I fondly recalled the
woodcarvings I had purchased during my last visit to
Bali, and was eager to add to my collection.
Unfortunately, a number of shops and galleries in Ubud
were closed, due to the lack of tourists. The locals
hope that summer will yield a return to previous
visitor levels.

Shopping completed, I ventured further south, to the
resort town of Nusa Dua. A beautiful (and very
affordable) Sheraton resort awaited my arrival. I
felt somewhat bad as I visited some more shops close
by. I had already completed my shopping, but I could
sense how desparately these people were to make a
sale. Their livelihoods have been shattered by the
ruthless actions of some zealots last fall. Such a
shame.

I felt very safe during this visit to Bali.
Stepped-up security is evident, but not overly
intrusive. In spite of the unfortunate events of a
few short months ago, the spirit of Bali lives on.
The people of Bali are warm, friendly and hospitable.
They are eager to share their beautiful island,
tropical beaches and rich cultural traditions with
tourists. This trip reaffirmed Bali as being one of
my favorite destinations in Asia.

Don’t write off this island. It’s unique and special
cultural offering is amazing. Discover. Experience.
Bali!


Happy Travels!

Mark

Travelogue: Dolphin Diving in Roatan, Honduras (Nov 2004)

It’s been quite a while since I wrote my last travelogue, and a number of you have asked about my travels in the meantime. Following the upheaval in my life in late 2003/early 2004 of relocating from Zurich, Switzerland to Washington, DC, I found that I lacked the desire and motivation to record my travel reflections. Happily, however, that desire was renewed during a recent trip.



In mid-November, I spent a week’s vacation on the Caribbean island of Roatan, Honduras. This island, though commonly known within scuba diving circles, is relatively unknown to most non-divers. As a diver, I too have held an interest in visiting Roatan for several years, and finally the opportunity arose. Aside from its reputation for fine diving, Roatan also appealed to me because it is relatively off the beaten path. In this day and age of overdevelopment and hyper commercialization in tourism, I yearned for something simpler and less complicated. I found exactly that on Roatan.



Roatan is linked with nonstop commercial flights to the USA only twice per week – Miami on Sundays and Houston on Saturdays. Both flights are operated with modern, comfortable A320 aircraft by Taca Airlines. Continental Airlines also recently added Saturday-only nonstop service to/from Houston. So, bottom line, Roatan is not the easiest place to get to. It requires some careful planning, but is well worth it.



The island has a rich history, and played an important role during the time of the Conquistadors, due its strategic location off the Honduran mainland. Roatan also served as a frequent harbor for swashbuckling, marauding pirates of the region. The island changed hands a number of times between the British and Spanish a few centuries ago, and the original, indigenous Native American inhabitants were eventually outnumbered/supplanted by Afro-Caribbean slaves. As such, English has historically been the predominant local language, peppered with patois/Creole nuances. Today, both English and Spanish are widely and interchangeably used by the locals, though Spanish is the official language of Honduras.



But I must admit, above all else, the unique thing that attracted me to Roatan was the activities at one specific hotel: Anthony’s Key Resort. As an adamant and unapologetic lifelong dolphin lover (or freak, according to some…), Anthony’s offer of a special dolphin dive fascinated me. The idea of doing a 45-minute scuba dive in the open ocean with two trained Atlantic Bottlenose dolphins and their trainer tugged at my inner dolphinmania in a unique way. This, accompanied by seaside/over-water accommodations in wooden bungalows (sans TV, a/c and telephone) sounded perfect in comparison to the sensory bombardment of everyday modern life.



Following the short 90-minute flight south from Miami, and complimentary bus transfer to the resort, my friend Swiss Barbara and I settled into our idyllic Caribbean paradise. The week commenced with two-tank dives on Monday and Tuesday. Since November is the beginning of the rainy season on Roatan, the seas off the northern coastline were too choppy for diving, but the southern shore of the long, thin island offered a number of great dive site options.



Diving is like bicycling in that once you’ve learned how to do it, you don’t forget. Though quick refresher sessions are necessary if you’ve lapsed more than one year between dives, the technique of “gearing-up” comes back to you quickly: align the pressurized air tank, mount your BC to the tank, arrange your regulator, octopus and pressure gauge, and open the valve to check your air pressure.



I love diving because I find it has a way of “centering” me – putting life in perspective, marveling at the beauty of the corals as you glide (fly) over them, and generally taking in the wonder and majesty of the underwater world. Anthony’s offers packages which include unlimited diving during your entire stay (equipment rental extra). The typical dive day entails two morning dives (usually 40-45 minutes each), an afternoon dive, and a night dive at sunset, depending on the weather. Additionally, guests are welcome to do their own, independent shore dives from the edge of the key, as well as explore the sunken DC-3 airplane in the resort’s inner harbor.



Anthony’s is definitely geared towards the diving crowd, and while it doesn’t disappoint, it could make for a somewhat boring vacation for non-diving guests. However, the resort offers a number of diving courses for both beginner and advanced divers, so there tends to be something for everyone. Sea kayaking, dolphin education/training and sunbathing options also exist, and a brand-new swimming pool is being built.



The definite highlight of the week was the dolphin dive, which we scheduled for Wednesday afternoon. The dives are typically planned for 8-10 divers, but we had a couple of no-shows, leaving me pleasantly surprised with our dolphin-to-diver ratio of 1 to 3! Once aboard our boat, we motored over to the dolphin enclosure where we were introduced to our two dolphins, Caya and Esteban, two teenage male dolphins from the resident pod of eight. After a few friendly strokes of their rubbery, chamois-like bodies, we re-boarded the boat and headed just offshore to a nearby buoy. The plan was to descend quickly to the 60-foot deep sandy ocean floor, where we’d interact with these amazing creatures for 45-minutes. Unfortunately, the current was very strong, and took Barbara and me off-course, causing a 15-minute delay in rejoining our fellow divers at the bottom.



Dolphins never cease to amaze and fascinate me. I always find myself in awe while in their presence. You somehow can’t help but sense their intelligence and admire their grace, dexterity and aerodynamic body design. Caya and Esteban playfully swam between us divers, sometimes brushing up against us while clicking their sonar to ascertain their environment around them. I have participated in a couple of other dolphin swim and scuba programs, but this one was by far the most rewarding to date. I would highly recommend this to any scuba diving dolphin enthusiast.



The rest of the week was a mix of scuba, sun and relaxation. A step away from the hectic pace of normal life – a true respite.



A couple other words of advice: both air-conditioned and non air-conditioned accommodations are available. Trust me; the a/c is not necessary, given the cool ocean breezes during the evenings. Be sure to bring mosquito repellent, as they do seem to enjoy acquainting themselves with your legs and arms during the night! In hindsight, I wish I had brought a citronella candle for the room. All meals a the resort are included in the package price, and the quality/variety of what’s served is excellent.



So, the next time you’re looking for a dive vacation that unique and a bit out of the ordinary, head for Roatan!



More information on Anthony’s Key can be found at www.anthonyskey.com.



Happy Travels!



Mark

Travelogue – South Island, New Zealand: Land of Adventure and Natural Beauty (Jan 2005)

A return trip to New Zealand had long been on my travel wishlist. While my previous visit in 1990 consisted of a weekend stay in Auckland, I knew that I wanted to focus this trip on South Island. Seeing the Lord of the Rings movies over the past couple of years, which were shot on location (mostly in South Island), only served to pique my interest. When a friend, Sally, mentioned the idea of me joining her, I gladly accepted.



Following the 6-hour nonstop flight from DC to LA (strong headwinds), the 12-hour nonstop flight from LA to Auckland (thankfully upgraded to business) and the 1-hour domestic flight from Auckland to Christchurch, I arrived on South Island on January 9th. Picked up my rental car and headed west, towards the Southern Alps, which form the western backbone of South Island. Headed through Arthur’s Pass National Park to reach the western shoreline. The flat plains of Canterbury quickly gave way to majestic alpine peaks and valleys. Traffic on the two-lane main east-west artery was light, in spite of this being the peak summer tourist season. My first impression is that South Island is a pseudo “Switzerland meets England”. Stunning natural beauty accompanied by a quaint British influence. The clouds and occasional rain of the highlands gave way to beautiful blue skies on the western shore. As I headed south towards Franz Josef and Fox glaciers, I encountered a series of micro-climates: sunny one minute, and rainy around the next corner or over the next hill. Stopped at Fox Glacier to grab some lunch and take a short hike to the terminal (frontal face) of the glacier. Took a couple of pics of the dirty blue ice as it drained into the Fox river. Spent the night at Haast, a lonely outpost before venturing inland towards Queenstown.



Drove into Queenstown, turned in my rental car and met Sally at the airport, where we caught a bus to head further southwest to Te Anau, the launch city for the Fiordland region. The next morning, we embarked on our two-day sea kayaking adventure of Doubtful Sound. A 6am pick-up was followed by a 1-hour boat ride across Lake Manapouri and a 40-minute bus ride up over Wilmot Pass to the isolated splendor of Doubtful Sound. Doubtful Sound is actually a misnomer, as Doubtful Fjord would be the geologically correct name of the U-shaped valleys opening to the Tasman Sea, formed by glaciers during the last Ice Age (as opposed to V-shaped valleys created by river erosion, resulting in the formation of a Sound). The eight of us kayakers and our guide loaded our two-man kayaks, packed our camping and personal equipment, and set out on our two-day exploration. It was a beautiful sunny day, and the peaceful, unspoiled natural setting warmed the heart and soul. We paddled westward, towards the sea, marveling at the stark, sheer granite cliffs that reached towards the blue sky above. We set up camp on a sheltered beach following several hours of paddling. Aside from the swarms of annoying sandflies that greeted our arrival, all went well as we pitched our tents and settled in for a night of camping in the middle of nowhere.



New Zealand has no natural predators, so we felt completely safe in this wilderness paradise. The next morning, we broke camp and set out by 9am. Though it was sunny, the wind had kicked up, blowing 15-20 knots off the Tasman Sea. Traversing the fjord was an exciting, yet daunting challenge. Was a great upper-body workout! Fortunately, our hard work paid off as, following lunch in a sheltered cove, we were able to “raft-up”, i.e. align the four kayaks side-by-side, hoist a makeshift sail, and sail our way back into our homeport at Deep Cove, at the easternmost point of Doubtful Sound. It was an amazing two-day adventure! (www.fiordlandseakayak.co.nz)



The next day, the weather turned cold, windy and grey. We set out from Te Anau northward to Milford Sound. By the time we reached Milford, it was pouring down rain; nothing unique for this area, which receives some 5-6 metres of rain annually. However, the beauty of this area, in contrast to our sunny experience in Doubtful Sound, was punctuated by the multitude of waterfalls which spontaneously sprang up along Milford Sound’s granite walls following the steady summer showers. Cruise highlights included seeing a herd of juvenile seals lazily laying on some windswept rocks, a pod of jumping Dusky dolphins and a visit to an underwater observatory. Another unique observation was a “water-up”, as opposed to a waterfall. The winds whip through Milford Sound so swiftly, that sometimes water attempting to flow downwards over a precipice is caught up, and blown sideways or upwards, reabsorbed back into the air. Later that afternoon, we were off to Queenstown, the reputed Adventure Capital of the World.



Queenstown is an amazing place: a picturesque, lakeside town of 7500 residents, surrounded by beautiful snow-capped peaks. Over the years, the town has developed a global reputation for high adventure and adrenaline activities. AJ Hackett started his now world-famous 130 metre bungy jump from a nearby bridge. Nowadays, visitors find a bevy of white-knuckle activities: bungy jumping, skydiving, whitewater rafting, hot air ballooning, canyoning, mountain biking, shotover jetboat, etc. And there are several great skiing options in the surrounding area during the wintertime. Queenstown is definitely a world-class, year-round, adventure lover’s paradise!



On Friday morning, we signed up for the Shotover Trio: a 5-hour, triple challenge of excitement starting with an early morning Shotover jetboat ride (www.shotoverjet.co.nz), then a 15-minute helicopter ride over Skipper’s Canyon, and finally a 2-hour whitewater rafting trip down the Shotover river (www.rafting.co.nz). Rounded out the adventure-filled week with a nice, relaxing massage treatment at an awesome spa (www.hushspa.co.nz). The



New Zealand is an amazing country, and South Island is especially interesting and exciting. In my opinion, Queenstown is uniquely special, and should be a definite priority on any adventure lover’s vacation plans at least once during their lives. One of the best aspects to me was the 16 hours of daylight (6am-10pm) during the middle of the southern summer – a definite energy boost to this northern hemispherer’s internal bodyclock! Great place for a mid-winter break.



So the next time you’re looking to combine adventure, excitement and natural beauty, head Down Under to New Zealand. You won’t be disappointed.



Happy Travels!



Mark

Travelogue – Costa Rica: Adventures in Ecotourism (Feb 2005)

A friend and former AA colleague of mine, Jim, and I decided to escape the mid-winter doldrums with a long weekend break to Costa Rica in mid-February. We had previously visited Costa Rica a dozen years ago, but had concentrated on the San Jose area. This time, we wanted to venture farther afield. Some research revealed that the Quepos/Manuel Antonio area along the Pacific coast, some 60 miles due south of San Jose, offered a wide variety of fun and exciting activities, including jungle canopy tours, river rafting, sea kayaking and rainforest horseback riding.



Costa Rica’s dry season extends from December through April, so February is an ideal time to visit. Found an amazing airfare deal on Taca Airlines (the airline of Central America) for $350 roundtrip from DC, so locked in my reservations back in November. Note: Don’t worry – Taca safely operates a modern, comfortable fleet of Airbus A319/A320 aircraft, and is a partner carrier of American Airlines. In fact, all of my flights arrived either on-time or early!



Had a comfortable flight from DC to El Salvador, with a short, 1-hour connecting flight on to San Jose, arriving mid-evening. Picked up our 4wd SUV rental car (heard the roads could be a bit rough) and headed to our quaint B&B in suburban San Jose (http://colours.net/) The Colours B&B had a charming courtyard with lush vegetation and an inviting pool and Jacuzzi, set in a quiet neighborhood. The stars were brilliant in the tropical evening sky. Saturday morning, had an early morning breakfast, made to order, and hit the road, heading for the Pacific Coast. Though Quepos is only 60 miles from San Jose, a major mountain chain separates the two, resulting in a 3.5 hour roadtrip (180km/100mi by road). The roads were windy and slow-moving heading west from San Jose, but flattened out significantly once we hit San Mateo and started hugging the coastline at Jaco. Overall, the highways were pretty good, with a few rough spots. Still, it was the right decision to rent an SUV.



Arrived in Quepos just before lunch, checked into our B&B there (http://www.kekoldi.com/) and grabbed a bite before heading out on our first adventure: the Canopy Tour, which was, undoubtedly, the highlight of the entire weekend (www.titicanopytours.com) The tour consists of a series of 12 suspension cables, linking 16 platforms, where visitors ride the ziplines from platform to platform, high above the jungle canopy below. (Think Tarzan!) The entire cable network is over 1.5km long (more than 1 mile), with three lines over 300 meters long (that’s 3 football fields, end-to-end). Most of the platforms are above 90 feet/30 meters off the ground. Zipping from platform to platform was an exhilarating experience, and while I am sometimes not crazy about heights, I felt safe in the harness I was wearing. Safety is the #1 priority, and that is evident throughout. Along the tour, we saw a number of beautiful tropical trees, flowers, several sloths, etc. Was really a fantastic and environmentally friendly way to view the rainforest – from above. Another canopy tour also exists closeby (www.canopysafari.com), which includes 18 platforms, 9 ziplines and 3 repel lines. I’ve heard it’s a great tour as well, but no thanks on the repelling!



The next afternoon, we did a catamaran boat ride with Planet Dolphin, where we set sail from the port in Quepos mid-afternoon and went down along the coastline to the Manuel Antonio National Park, whose boundaries extend into the Pacific Ocean, providing shelter and preservation from commercial and sport fishing. It was a great afternoon, filled with sun, sea and unlimited mixed drinks. The cat anchored a couple of times for us to go swimming and snorkeling. Great fun! The 4-hour trip was capped off by watching the stunning sunset over the vast Pacific horizon.



On Monday morning, we headed back to San Jose to catch our mid-afternoon flights home. Stopped by one bridge to view a few crocs idling along the riverbanks while a couple of brightly colored scarlet macaws flew overhead. It was a fantastic 3-day weekend in Central America!



Some general comments: If/when I return to Quepos, I would definitely pay the $80 roundtrip to fly there from San Jose (20-minute flight vs. 3-hour drive). Besides, once you’re in Manuel Antonio, you really don’t need a car. Any activities you participate in will pick you up/drop you off at your hotel/B&B. The food is great! Tropical fruits abound, and we dined on fresh seafood dinners every evening. The Kekoldi B&B in Manuel Antonio was okay, but its backdrop is the jungle, away from the ocean. When I return, I would definitely prefer to stay at the Hotel Villa Roca B&B (http://villaroca.com/index.html), a much nicer property cascading down the hillside with spectacular, unobstructed views to the Pacific. They also have an amazing “endless” pool that seems to blend with the ocean at the horizon. Unfortunately, Villa Roca was sold out (even back in November), so be sure to book months in advance! I’d have to say that Costa Rica definitely ranks in my list of Top 10 favorite countries. It’s clean (by Latin American standards) and relatively safe (petty theft can be encountered, but we had no problem). It’s a great country with a wide array of activities that appeal to everyone. Manuel Antonio definitely deserves repeat visits.



Additional photos accompanying this travelogue can be seen in the Costa Rica folder at: http://photos.yahoo.com/mark_haneke.



Happy Travels!



Mark