Travelogue: Opera - Italian Style (July 2002)

I just returned from a weekend in Verona, Italy. Yes,
the town made famous by the Shakespearean tale of
Romeo and Juliet plays host to an 80-year old summer
opera festival. This year's two month Arena di Verona
features a daily rotation among five classic operas:
Aida, Carmen, Il Trovatore, Nabucco and Tosca. I had
heard excellent reviews of last year’s performances,
so five friends and I made plans in January for this
weekend getaway. We settled on Nabucco, the tale of
love and betrayal among the Hebrews living in ancient
Babylon.

On Friday afternoon, I caught a mid-afternoon flight
from Zurich to Lugano. The hop over the Alps lasted a
whopping 25 minutes aboard the 50-seat Saab 2000
turboprop. It was a crystal clear day, and I enjoyed
gazing down at the beautiful, snow capped peaks as we
buzzed over the backbone of Europe. Upon arrival, I
transferred to the train station for my onward 3-hour
rail journey to Verona via Milan.

My friends from Munich made hotel reservations at a
charming hotel along the eastern shore of Lago di
Garda, a short 20-minute drive west of Verona.

www.gardengarda.it

Saturday morning, we met at the pool for a refreshing
pre-breakfast swim in the pool. The bright morning
light beckoned us out to the westward-facing balcony,
unveiling, in succession, the grapevine latticework
in the foreground, the inviting pool, the tennis
courts, the quaint village of Garda and the vast Lago
di Garda. Following breakfast, we meandered through
the narrow, cobblestone streets of the old town,
shopping along the way. In the early afternoon, we
headed to Verona and stopped at a supermarket to stock
up on our evening picnic supplies. Fresh cheese,
salami, pesto, foccacia, chianti and San Pelligrino
overflowed from our baskets.

We forged onward in search of a parking lot close to
the arena, and proceeded to queue-up for the gates to
open two hours prior to the 915pm performance. We had
open seating tickets, so we hurried to mark our
desired spot in our section. The evening picnic in
the centuries-old Roman amphitheatre ensued. Hordes
of other entertainment-seeking tourists and local
opera enthusiasts poured into the stands and claimed
their spots on the tiered stone slabs. One-third of
the amphitheatre has been closed off, yielding room
for an enormous stage, with the back end of the arena
serving as an impressive, graduated backdrop.

The weather was ideal – a clear, moonlit night
provided the perfect natural canopy. Dusk settled in
around 9pm, and the performance commenced soon after.
The pomp and pageantry of the venue was amazing.
Though not self-described as an opera aficionado, I
couldn’t help but be impressed as I soaked up the
ambiance of the setting. The emotion and accompanying
music ebbed and flowed throughout the evening as the
Verdi saga unfolded. The vocal performances were
stellar, as evidenced by the occasional “Brava!” or
“Bravissimo, Giacomo!” was verbally lauded on an
actress or actor by an adoring fan following a
particularly moving scene. It was a joy to behold the
sheer passion with which the Italians love and support
their opera. Oh yeah, and in case you were wondering:
it wasn’t over until the fat lady sang!

Three hours and fifteen minutes later (including two
25-minute intermissions), at half-past midnight, the
performance came to a close. The crowd erupted into
thunderous applause with accompanying standing
ovation. Yet another night of success at this gem of
an opera festival.

After sleeping in on Sunday morning, followed by
breakfast, a leisurely poolside repose and a quick
jaunt to the local gelateria, we caught our
mid-afternoon train across the fertile plains of
northern Italy, back to Milan and onwards to Zurich,
arriving home some five hours later.

www.arena.it

Arena di Verona’s current season runs through
September 1st. The 2 ½ month summer season has
already been posted for 2003 on the website. The
festival has gained a loyal following over the years,
so it’s best to book early. So, head on over to
Verona and soak-up some Italian culture. You won’t
regret it!

Ciao,

Mark