Serendipity: The faculty of making fortunate
discoveries by accident.
I was pleased when I learned, a few weeks ago, that I
would have a business trip to Sri Lanka. This
tear-shaped island off the southeastern coast of India
has always held a special fascination in my mind.
Initially, I guess it was just the name: Sri Lanka.
So exotic-sounding to me as a teenager. Then my
interest grew as I learned how diverse and
ecologically-varied this tropical island is.
The island, 150 miles wide, and 300 miles long, has a
population of app. 20 million people, 2 million of
whom reside in metro Colombo. The population is
religiously diverse, with 70% Buddhist, 15% Hindu,
7.5% Christian and 7.5% Muslim. Many staple foods and
products which we take for granted in our lives are
produced here: coffee, world-famous tea, rice,
rubber, spices, bananas, coconuts, pineapples and a
myriad of other tropical fruits and vegetables. My
favorite Sri Lankan fruit: the purple-colored
mangosteen, with its succulent, fleshy white core.
Following four days of aeropolitical talks with
government officials (updating the Air Services
Agreement between Switzerland and Sri Lanka),
commercial talks with Sri Lankan Airlines, dinner at
the Swiss Ambassador’s residence, etc. I extended my
stay over the weekend, and ventured into the
countryside. I had visited Sri Lanka twice before, in
March 1989 and March 2002. Both previous trips left
an indelible print on my mind that compelled me to
return – and stay longer.
Upon the advice of some airline colleagues, I decided
to venture back to the cultural heartland of the
Ancient Capitals, in the north central part of the
island. Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya had
made such distinct impressions on me in 1989, that I
eagerly awaited a return visit to the area. However,
I also wanted to visit the northeastern port city of
Trincomalee, reputed to have one of the world’s finest
natural harbors, and an historically important way
station a couple of centuries ago for trade ships
plying the seas between Europe and the Far East,
around the Cape of Africa. “Trinco”, as it’s called,
had been off limits in 1989, as it was considered
unsafe at the time due to the presence of the militant
separatist Tamil Tigers. However, the peace process
was hastened, following the global anti-terrorist
sentiments post 9/11, and ongoing talks for a lasting
peace between the majority (Buddhist) Sinhalese and
minority (Hindu) Tamil factions are progressing. It
is hoped that a lasting, long-term settlement can be
found soon. Fortunately, the current cease-fire has
held for a number of months, and an air of optimism
can be detected among the nationals.
We set out at 6am from the southwestern capital of
Colombo, arriving some 6 hours later in Trinco. Sri
Lanka’s infrastructure is poor following 20 years of
civil unrest and violence. Thus, only secondary roads
span the country, and max speed is usually 30-50
km/hour, while dodging trunks and passenger-laden
buses on the narrow routes. A new, express highway
linking Colombo with its international airport, some
25km to the north, will open next year. Further work
is currently underway on a major highway, extending
from Jaffna in the north to Galle in the south. This
major artery is expected to ease congestion and
significantly improve domestic travel times.
Stopped at a seaside resort in Nilaveli for lunch.
Beautiful, unspoiled, nearly deserted white sand
beaches stretch for miles in either direction.
Multiple military check-points were encountered
throughout the Trinco region, following an incident
earlier in the week where a boat just off the coast
refused to identify neither the contents of its cargo,
nor its last port of call, and was summarily blown out
of the water by a Sri Lankan navy gunboat. However,
as a day tourist I felt safe, and enjoyed lunch at the
beach, as well as a visit to Trinco’s sacred Hindu
shrine (Swami Rock) on a small, hilled peninsula
jutting into the open sea. The bright, colorful Hindu
temple glistened in the hot, noonday sun. Also of
note was Lover’s Leap, right next to the shrine, where
legend holds that, after her seafaring lover set sail
yet again, a young lady leapt to her death in the
crashing surf some 100 metres below.
The two-hour road trip back to Dambulla was laced with
beautiful vistas of rice paddies, open grasslands and
tanks – huge man-made reservoirs dating back several
centuries as a means of regulating the water supply
between the humid monsoon and dry seasons. We saw a
host of resident birdlife, several mongooses
(mongeese?) scampering across the roadway, some
spotted deer, and even a couple of wild elephants.
We arrived at Kandalama, near Dambulla, in the late
afternoon. This 160-room hotel, built into the
hillside overlooking a vast tank, offers the visitor a
unique blend of nature, practicality and comfort, and
serves as a model for bio-friendly eco-tourism. The
resort was designed by a famous Sri Lankan architect,
and opened in 1992. A variety of adventurous
activities are available to guests, including nature
hikes, horseback riding, forest treks atop an
elephant, river safaris, fishing and boat rides.
Also, Kandalama is centrally located within a 30-90
minute drive of several historical, cultural and
religious sites. Here’s a link to this amazing
resort:
http://www.aitkenspencehotels.com/kandalama/index_nonflash.htm
The next morning, I decided to return to my favorite
site of Sri Lanka’s Cultural Triangle: Sigiriya.
This monolith rises 200 meters above the surrounding
plains and rice paddies, and is a UNESCO world
heritage site. Sigiriya dates back to the 5th
century, A.D., and served as a walled and moated royal
capital from that period. It’s strategic location and
vantage point is readily obvious to any visitor. After
the fall of the ancient empire, the site served as a
Buddhist monastery for several centuries. The
mountaintop complex comprised an elaborate series of
gardens, pools and palace buildings, of which only
ruins remain today. However, the Sri Lankan Cultural
Fund has been faithfully restoring the entire complex,
and the grounds today offer the visitor a peaceful,
tranquil “stairmaster-charged” cultural experience.
The ascent can be comfortably done in 45-60 minutes,
including water, rest and photo-op breaks. Also
included at the site are the famous Apsara fresco
paintings of court maidens, with their elaborate
costumes and ornaments. These pictorial gems adorn
the walls of a hollowed-out enclosure half-way up the
rock. Sigiriya offers the visitor an amazing and
unique cultural step back in time, while providing a
brisk morning physical workout as well!
This trip to Sri Lanka solidified my notion of Sri
Lanka as being my favorite exotic country. The wealth
of natural beauty, resources and cultural treasures
that this island of Serendib offers is truly unique
and amazing. It is unfortunate that little is known
or appreciated about Sri Lanka, especially in the
States. Though half a world away, Sri Lanka deserves
greater attention and promotion. With the bright
prospects of lasting peace and stability on the
horizon, coupled with some ambitious infrastructure
improvement projects, and increasing foreign
investment, I believe that Sri Lanka is uniquely
poised to be the dynamic economic Tiger of South Asia
in the coming decade.
I hope to again return to this magical island sometime
in the near future, and spend even more time
soaking-up its unique blend of nature, culture and
history. Come to Sri Lanka, a land like no other!
Happy Travels!
Mark
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